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Nordic Gold Answered

I'm planning on making a ring out of a coin. I'll use Euro coins. 1, 2 e 5 Eurocent coins are made of copper covered steel and are too small, so I think they won't be a good choice. 1 and 2 Euro coins are the right size, but it seems that they are made of alloys containing nickel, that may cause allergy. So I think I'll use a 50 Eurocent coin, that is made of Nordic Gold, an alloy (89% copper, 5% aluminium, 5% zinc, and 1% tin). Has anyone ever made a ring out of Nordic Gold? Did it cause allergy or stain your finger?   Did it tarnish? Is it malleable? Thanks

Question by Fabio M    |  last reply


Nordic Walking Poles

Commercial versions of these poles are quite hi-tech and expensive. They are usually made of aluminum or carbon fiber, but could cheaper versions for occasional use be made from bamboo or rattan perhaps? The shapes of the handles look quite complicated on some models. Anyone like to have a go at designing and making some? Paul W.

Topic by Paul Wotherwell    |  last reply


Rotational Charger?

Any ideas how one could transform rotational movement into usable energy?  I want to attach a little radio device to a tire and have that device charge a little battery when the wheel rotates so that it can transmit information (i.e. rpm).  Was thinking of using a small Nordic radio and accelerometers to transmit data.  

Question by swaxolez    |  last reply


connect picaxe / computer / internet - budget solution ?

Am a newbee to picaxe working with mac soft- and hardware & i spent a a lot of time looking for the following: ------------------------------------ i would like to ... - transfer in- output data from simple components (such as a IR LED used for light/dark detection ) - .... via picaxe - ... to windows and mac computers in order to .... - pass them on to a website or eMail them ------------------------------------ i already had a look at ... - arduino/processing configurations (e.g. some amazing "twitter" variants posted on instructables, hack-a-day, etc. ... ) - additional external server projects (as on this site - e.g. very impressive webcams driven by websites and controlled by 'site users ...) - Nordic RF, Cellular, Zigbee, Bluetooth, XBee WiFi, FM Transmitter and Receiver, General TX/RX sending/receiving configurations (btw. - there is a very interesting comparison of these on sparkfun ---> http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/128 ) - very elaborate software solutions (using combinations of php, processing, python and other scripts) all of them being highly impressive and, most important of course: working well ------------------------------------ but - is there any quite easy-to-configure and budget way which does not require ... - additional, external servers - platform specific software (windows/mac/linux only) - the implementation of several software packages and runs with e.g. ... - a 08M2 picaxe (or larger).... - probably cheap component(s) (such as the Nordic RF mentioned on sparkfun) - a minimum of software requirements - a software/software component which is easy to install and configure (Visual Basic Macros doesn't seem to run once i created them via word on my mac) ? any hints are highly appreciated ...  

Topic by marc_is_curious  


A speciel stepdown converter?

Hello guys of instructables! I'm writing on this forum, because I think you the only guys that can help me! My situation: I'm from Europe (Nordic part), and our voltage/hertz is 230v 50hz - I think. What I'm trying to do is using american clippers here in my country, but what I've experienced is that it really going to work because the magnetic motor in the hair clipper is going to make alot of noise and overheat, even tho if you used a stepdown converter (230v to 110v) My request: But yesterday i saw a guy on youtube which said that he had made a revolutionary stepdown converter, that would solve the problem and make american clippers anywhere in Europe - without overheating and noise. Here is the video:  http://youtu.be/I2Ybj1BKjYk?list=UUpnyPxtX9XwOJZbN8qwVoLg And here is a ebay link of the converter: http://www.ebay.ie/itm/181496829039 I think its a bit of a overprice (119.3575$) and I was wondering if there is an alternative, where can either make it myself or buy one as good as that one with same specs and quality.. I hope you guys can help me, I'm a bit of unexperienced guy when it comes to electronics so bare with me.. - josh

Question by joshua1993  


NPR: $100/Barrel of Crude

This came up in another forum, but I heard the report too.... So today, there was a broadcast on NPR (yes, I admit that I listen to NPR :p) about a $100 per barrel crisis.... If you didn't know, a barrel of crude goes for about $93. Personally, I don't think it will cause a crisis - it's not as if it's going from $30 to $100 in a week. However, seriously, are the masses comatose? It's not like no one has been warning them of this - and the consequences nowhere near sustainable living. Arrrrr.... I've been saying it for awhile - if we don't regulate ourselves, nature is going to take the kind liberty of doing that for us (and that won't be pretty). Soylent Green anyone? I mean, I recently read that the average American will consume about 500,000 gallons of water per year... whereas some of the Nordic countries, consumption is around 17,500 gallons per person... By the way, the US has a very limited water store supply :/ US has 5% of world population... 25% of world total CO2 emissions. China, for example, has 22% of the world population - but only 15% of the world's CO2 emissions.... US has 5% of the world population - and 29% world CO2 emissions from fossil fuels. (china 14.5) What percentage of companies are considered sustainable (by Dow Jones sustainability index) in the US? A measly, 19.8% (UK: 68%).

Topic by trebuchet03    |  last reply


How to use a potentiometer with this treadmill motor and speed controller?

Hi everyone I found this forum after doing a lot of searching on controlling the speed on a treadmill motor without using the big bulky digital display unit that sits on top of the treadmill. I bought a really nice Nordic Track for 10 dollars on Craigslist and I thought I would be able to figure out how to do this but apparently I was wrong. I have seen a lot of material regarding the MC-60 speed controller unit but nothing about the speed controller that came on the treadmill that I bought which was the MC-2100 Rev B. I will attach a couple of pictures of the board and specifically the wires coming from the display unit that go into the board. I have a 5k pot but I really dont know what to do with it and I am afraid to just start experimenting because I dont want to burn up the motor or the board. I would be happy to post any other pictures or add any other information that might be of help if anyone asks for it. Of course I would like to turn this little project into a lathe if I can ever get everything sorted out. btw the motor is a 2.25 hp cont duty. If the potentiometer wont work, I would love to hear about other ideas to be able to control the speed using this board and motor. Thanks everyone

Topic by wilsocn  


Rebuilding NordicTrack ski machine drive rollers

Many people still buy and use a NordicTrack Ski Machine, although these machines are not as popular as they once were. I have talked to people who say they just plain wore out a ski machine. The part that wears is the one-way clutch inside the drive rollers. NordicTrack makes the one-way clutch sound very mysterious. In reality it is a one-way needle bearing and is available from Amazon or locally from a good bearing shop. The internal diameter of the one-way needle bearing used in my machine (Challenger, similar to a 303) is 5/8 inch. The outer diameter is 7/8 inch. The width of the one-way needle bearing from end to end is 5/8 inch. I originally had hopes of being able to install new one-way needle bearings, myself; but, they together with the bronze sleeve bearings on either side of the one-way needle bearing inside each drive roller are pressed into place. Pressing bearings is not a job for the average home tinkerer but requires a bearing press capable of exerting tons of pressure in a very precise manner. You can often have a local machine shop press the bearings in your machine's drive rollers. Or, you can send them away to Nordic Track Guy and have them rebuilt for about $33 with a one week turnaround. The core of the rollers really does not wear out, but new rollers are available on the Internet from $65 to $95, depending on the vendor. From what I can find, some models used an alternate size. Check to be certain you order the correct rollers, if you choose to replace. One of my drive rollers suddenly began to hiccup. It seemed that the clutch did not always release immediately when I pulled my foot forward. Then I noticed a little mush in the response when I began to bring my foot back on the push stroke. Before you rebuild or replace your rollers, try this: Remove one side of your Ski Machine. See the second photo and check the exploded diagram in your manual. Four nuts and two screws, all plainly visible, need to be removed. Slide the washers and the roller off of the top side. The shaft and flywheel can be wiggled out of the other side without removing anything from that side. Remove the washers and the roller from that side, too. Flush the one-way needle bearing by squirting some penetrating oil, like Liquid Wrench, into the bearing. Work it both ways with your smallest finger. Push a facial tissue into the shaft hole in the roller and sop away the penetrating oil and any metallic dust it lifts. Do this several times. Let the rollers air dry. A little lubrication is good. People who comment on lubrication for one-way needle bearings use Tri-Flo (I am not familiar with it.) or they use a little ATF transmission fluid. You want enough to lubricate, but not so much that the bearings slip. (But, see the comments below where the oil impregnated bronze sleeve bearings are supposed to supply enough lubrication for the needle bearings.) Put the rollers back in place on the shaft. Check to be certain they grab on the rearward stroke and release on the forward stroke. Reassemble the machine. Do not forget the washers between the roller and the side board. My machine works again as it should. The day will likely come when this simple fix does not help, and I will need to rebuild or replace the rollers then. But, for now, my rollers have a new lease on life. What follows is for your information. The first photo is of a portion of the back cover of the manual that came with my machine. It shows a cutaway image of the drive roller. The black printing is mine. Notice the three cylinders inside the drive roller. The outer two are bronze sleeve bearings. The center one looks like a roller bearing, but is a one-way needle bearing. A one-way needle bearing is essentially a roller bearing, but the rollers are able to move forward and backward a little in their cage. There is a wedge shape for the axle of each roller that causes the rollers to bind between the bearing cage and the shaft when the rotation is in one direction, but they are free in the other direction. Here is a description of how they work with graphics. This link is for an Instructable about a number of modifications I made to our NordicTrack ski machine, including how it can be stored vertically in a closet. If you do not have a digital monitor for your skier, or need to replace one, here is an Instructable on how to make your own from a digital bicycle speedometer.  Check NordicParts for any parts you need, also Nordic Fitness Ski Machines. Danny at Nordic Fitness Ski Machines has some very nice new rollers for sale.

Topic by Phil B    |  last reply


Stepper motor working with nrf51dk (problem with timer i think)

Hello everyone, I am trying to make a program that makes work a stepper motor 28BYJ-48, my stepper motor is well connected to the ULN2003 and the ULN2003 is well connected to my nrf51dk, here is a picture of my setup : https://coeleveld.com/arduino-stepper-uln2003a/I foloowed this tutorial and it worked with my Arduino, so I guess the problem is not coming from there.I am now making a program using the nrf51dk, I am using nrf51_sdk_10.0.0 and the ble_app_uart as an example, my project is to control the motor via Bluetooth.But for the moment I just would like to make the motor runing.so I follow the same principe of code as in the tutorial for making it work.I need a timer, so I also followed the "Application timer tutorial" from nordic :devzone.nordicsemi.com/.../application-timer-tutorialhere is my code that I Added to the ble_app_uart project ://At the top I define the differents gpios that I will have to use//and step_number that is a variable use to navigate threw the differents steps for the motor to work int step_number = 0; #define motorPin1 1 #define motorPin2 2 #define motorPin3 3 #define motorPin4 4 #define APP_TIMER_PRESCALER 15 /**< Value of the RTC1 PRESCALER register. */ #define APP_TIMER_OP_QUEUE_SIZE 5 /**< Size of timer operation queues. */ //I add 4 different timers, one for each pin APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step1); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step2); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step3); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step4); . . . //the code already defined in the existing project//Timeout handler for the repeated timer //I need 4 timeout handler, one foreach motorPin static void timer_a_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin1); } static void timer_b_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin2); } static void timer_c_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin3); } static void timer_d_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin4); } //Then I create the timers // Create timers static void create_timers() { uint32_t err_code1; uint32_t err_code2; uint32_t err_code3; uint32_t err_code4; // Create timers err_code1 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step1, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_a_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step2, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_b_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step3, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_c_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step4, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_c_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); } //And here is my main //with the loop to make work the motor the same way I did with the arduino, but adapting the code int main(void) { uint32_t err_code; uint32_t err_code1; uint32_t err_code2; uint32_t err_code3; uint32_t err_code4; bool erase_bonds; uint8_t start_string[] = START_STRING; // Initialize. APP_TIMER_INIT(APP_TIMER_PRESCALER, APP_TIMER_OP_QUEUE_SIZE, false); uart_init(); buttons_leds_init(&erase;_bonds); ble_stack_init(); gap_params_init(); services_init(); advertising_init(); conn_params_init(); printf("%s",start_string); err_code = ble_advertising_start(BLE_ADV_MODE_FAST); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code); create_timers(); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin1, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin2, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin3, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin4, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); // Enter main loop. for (;;) { uint8_t str1[1] = "1"; uint8_t str2[1] = "2"; uint8_t str3[1] = "3"; uint8_t str4[1] = "4"; switch(step_number){ case 0: err_code1 = app_timer_start(timer_step1, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str1, strlen((char*)str1)); break; case 1: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_start(timer_step2, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str2, strlen((char*)str2)); break; case 2: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_start(timer_step3, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str3, strlen((char*)str3)); break; case 3: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_start(timer_step4, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str4, strlen((char*)str4)); break; } step_number++; if(step_number > 3){ step_number = 0; } power_manage(); } }Probably I am doing Something wrong with the timer, because when I modify it and decide to use it with a led for testing like in the tutorial, the motor makes noise but doesn't move and the led works. If someone can help, it's been hours I am on this problem and I can't find my mistakes.

Topic by BenjaminP106