Search for filler in Topics


DIY Bottle Filler?

I fill, cap and label my own small paints (craft/ceramic).  The bottles range (in volume) from 1/2oz - 8oz.  The most common, and the one I'm most concerned about speeding up, is the 1/2oz bottle size. I currently use large ketchup/mustard bottles, which means I'm continually re-filling those bottles for any given batch I'm filling. I've been trying to figure out how I could create my own DIY bottle-filler, as a commercially-available, bench-top filler is several thousand dollars. What I've envisioned up to now is some sort of air-tight container to hold the paint with an air-compressor (at a very low pressure, but enough to push  the liquid through when gravity won't) connected at the top and a tube connected at the bottom.  At the other end of the tube (to be held by the user) would be a nozzle with a release valve of some sort. Anyone have some more technical thoughts on how I might achieve this contraption?

Question by jchonparadise    |  last reply


Clear Filler for inside of bottle caps?

Along with a recent purchase from Etsy the seller included a bottle cap with a magnet on the back. The bottle cap has a design on the inside and she filled it with a laquer or some sort of clear filler. Anyone have any idea what that filler would most likely be?

Question by caseym    |  last reply


How can I make a cheap foam for sealing spaces - that's not edible by bugs :-)?

That's basically it - a cheap bulk foam filler. Thanx

Question by Baatjes    |  last reply


How do you make Sanding Sealer / Grain Filler?

Hello there :) This is my first forum post so please be gentle ;) Okay, here's the skinny. I am doing a zakk wylde paint job on my stagg strat. I've removed all the paint and sanded it down. But I have some scratches on it (from the sanding) and a few places where I went in too deep with the sandpaper and removed some of the old sanding sealer. So, I need some sanding sealer / grain filler in order to make it a nice smooth surface so I can apply primer to it. Here's the problem. I live in a country where there is ABSOLUTELY NO DEMAND for sanding sealer / grain filler. So there is nothing like that in Bulgaria. And I need to know how I can make my own. (all of the carpenters here sand it and put on some lacquer and it's an awful finish but that's how it is here) Sooo, can any1 please help mee.... :) I really need something that is a good substitute of grain filler / sanding sealer.

Topic by tednet    |  last reply


I need help to braze 308 and 316 steel rod Answered

I'm a glass bead maker and silver jewelry maker. I'm trying to braze 308L steel rod to make some jewelry displays. I have had limited success using my regular silver jewelry solders and griffith flux but the joints are weak and easily broken. I have a torch but I need to know which filler material to use and which flux I should buy for it. So far I've been unable to fathom it out. Sadie

Question by sadiesjewels    |  last reply


DIY bottle filler for lotions and cremes

This will show up in homebrewing but that's not exactly what I'm wanting to do. It's the only thing close to what I'm doing so that's the category it fell into. Sorry. I want to make a multi bottle filler to fill 12 - 2 oz to 6 oz bottles of skin moisturizer and or sun tan oils and lotions.   I'm thinking something like a five gallon bucket with an air nipple to pressurize the bucket and force the liqud lotion down into the bottles through a tree with multiple filler tubes. I included a picture for something similar but it's got filler wands for beer and I don't think that will work with thicker lotions.  If I saw a plan, that would be cool. I think I'm on the right track but haven't figured out how to seal the bucket and control the output of the lotion. Needs a cutoff valve that can be adjusted. Suggestions, comments or something similar or a completed DIY would be great. 

Question by Ghostrider13    |  last reply


How strong is bondo body filler? Answered

How strong is the bondo body filler? Im looking into making custom molded handles with a castable plastic or rubber and was looking at bondo. Would it suffice for making a light handle? Whats it like when its dry in terms of wear and tear,texture.care,and strenght?

Question by trf    |  last reply


How hard is epoxy wood filler? Answered

I've asked quite a few questions regarding prop building, as to try and get back to my project. Major issue is the VOC of body filler and fiberglass resin. However, I think I found a soultion to it. I was curious as to how hard epoxy wood filler is once cured. Is it something that (god forbid) if coated onto something, and said something is dropped, will the epoxy be damaged? How hard is it work with (ie, can I heat it up to make it 'thinner')? Thanks in advance! 

Question by DoctorWoo    |  last reply



Filler rod getting maganatized to base metal?

I recently have been going to school and i have a problem and its not just me that it is happening to. I asked the teacher and he don't know what is happening either. We're doing open v grooves on carbon steel. Every time i start the arc my filler rod becomes magnatized to the base plate and makes it harder for me to push the filler rod it into the puddle. If you had any info on it or a website where i could find out what is happening it would help alot. Thanks

Question by jackson200587    |  last reply


Floor Filler used for doming casting resin? Answered

I met someone from Germany who had a clear, 2 part floor filling compound, that after mixing, she could pour into a mold and have it turn out like casting resin, Does any body know of the stuff she is talking about?

Question by KyleofAsgard    |  last reply


question about TIG fusion welding without filler? Answered

Hello, Does fusion welding of mild steel  with either acetylene or TIG result in the same metal structure; is all melting the same ? Here is a rambling explanation of why I am asking. I wanted to start acetylene welding again but have found that the gas prices here in the UK are even worse than I Imagined. So, I thought to buy a TIG welder : I will be mostly welding 1.5mm mild steel sheet. I used to enjoy fusion welding with acetylene and hardly ever used filler; does fusion with a TIG welder result in the same molecular/chemical structure as acetylene ? The reason I ask is that, I looked at hundreds of online opinions about TIG fusion welding of mild steel and generally they all said not to do it as it will cause the surrounding metal to be brittle; but they were proper welders doing proper structural things; I am only doing scultpures and all of of my stuff from 20 years ago is still holding . . .  so if TIG melting is the same then I will go for it, Thanks

Question by FriendOfHumanity    |  last reply


Automatic Bottle Filler, Seal and Capper and Label Applicator.?

HELP!!! OK, I have put together a awesome new group of liquid based products for a variety of uses (being vague bc it's to much to go over now). But before my investor group will commit to stage 3 of funding (stage one was a small infusion for the chemistry and product development, and stage 2 is on my own dime). Now I have 30 days to come up with plans and a protoype assembly line to produce the first 500K in units...it needs to be fully automatic, not semi-automatic...at least for each individual process. I have researched the net and there are alot of semi-auto systems i can fully automate, and the big boy systems are just out of my reach until I get stage 3 funding...i have to produce a min of this much product in an effort to get it on the shelves of the clients we have setup. I need to fill round bottles (2.5 and 4 oz and 12oz), fill flat sided quarts and gallons, and hopefully at some point round and flat sided 3,5,and7 gallon buckets. i know that this can be one machine with different run setups or 3-4 different similar systems. then I need a sealer, basically applies the pressure sensitive seal then heats it and seals it form spilling, tampering etc. then a separate system that screws the cap on finally and importantly applies either the peel and stick pressure sensitive pre-printed labels, or heat transfer label or silk screening... OK before anyone says a thing...i know its very complex, I know it's gonna cost some money, but I do know it can be done DIY style... so your thoughts, input, links to similar parts and pieces or ideas, etc...

Question by IdeaVault    |  last reply


Sewing up a bean bag sofa/bed...Filler ideas???

Got the "beans"...cheap!!! Now easiest way without getting the "beans" all over to fill my Sofa/bean bag bed??? I have over 30 cu ft of "beans" to try and get into my "bean" bag sofa/bed...

Question by steelnix    |  last reply


Deadmau5 head with plastic / wood / fiberglass ears? Do I need to mold them using body filler and glass fiber?

I'm going to use deadmau5's cheese head as it is visibly the best for an example. The ears are made of a hardened material with a gloss finish. The holes through them seem to clearly show that they are not foam underneath. I was curious as to how I could achieve the same effect and strength. I've seem some exquisite models of helmets here and in particular individuals who have created the daft punk helmets. They created molds. I've never used fiberglass / body filler / etc but I'm a rapid learner and I'm willing to suffer trial and error like anyone else. I was curious though, if it is possible to take the styrofoam ear and then coat the ear with bondo (or another body filler/putty) to create that hardened mold and then primer, paint and gloss it. Can someone with experience with these materials shed some light. I really want to achieve this look! Here is a video of the cheese head when it was unveiled: Thanks in advance guys. I can be contacted via email at "sip_deco_c@hotmail.com" if required. Help would be greatly appreciated! Peace, Deco

Question by TopdeK    |  last reply


What does BONDO short strand fiberglass body filler NOT stick to?

I'm thinking of building a small canoe by making a cheap mold and spreading the fiberglass stuff on it and popping it out. However, it is sticky. Anyone know what the stuff DOES NOT stick to. And perhaps and ideas on making a mold.

Question by ANDY!    |  last reply


Best tool to use to cut off silver-weighted knife handles?

Ok so I have a project from time to time.. I find sterling silver .925/1000 knives that have weighted handles.  Weighted means that the handle of the knife is a covering of silver surrounding a filler (ceramic, plaster, resin, sawdust) and the filler keeps the stainless steel blade in place.   I currently use a Dewalt bench grinder with a abrasive blade attached to slice open the silver handle and then I have to split it open and break out the filler. I have heard of a Diamand bladed tile saw.. I have no experience with one.. any suggestions?

Question by sassquatch62    |  last reply


Would lentils be a good filling for juggling balls? Answered

I'm just making cheap juggling balls out of balloons and I need a filler. Would lentils work?

Question by WerdnaN    |  last reply


To transform liquid extraction into powder?

I would like to transform liquid extraction (reishi, shiitake and maitake mushroom) into powder to be capsule for storage and more controlled measured dosage. Is it possible also without fillers?

Question by SofyanK    |  last reply


what's the dark grey powder in a firecracker? Answered

I've been taking apart firecrackers, and I've found out that the light grey stuff is the flash powder. so what's that dark grey stuff under it? is it just filler? what's it's purpose?

Question by codongolev    |  last reply


can you put bondo on plaster of paris? Answered

Can you put bondo on plaster of paris? i want to put some kind of filler on a rounded styrofoam shape, and then use bondo to make it look like a hard plastic or metal surface

Question by William930    |  last reply


NEW, UNUSED SILKSCREEN AND ACCESSORIES FOR US$20

For Sale Silkscreen 10*14 inside 1 Black and 1 White ink bottles 8 fluid oz Photo Emulsion, Screen Filler, and Drawing Fluid 4 fluid oz Squeegee All this for US$20 plus shipping

Topic by fire_drakon117  


auto paint help

I am not in to paint jobs but really love to do good work and i know if some one gide me good i do very good job from my heart. need little info i want to paint my car rear quarter pannel there is little rust which need to be fix.and i have sanded the quarter pannel the silver body is show now i like to know after fixing the rust what step do i need to take?put filler or first spray with the epoxy primer to wont get rust then filler?and after spraying final paint do i need to sand the paint before clear coate or after final paint do i spray the clear coate straight away?

Topic by acura2.2cl    |  last reply


Uber Futon

I am making plans to make a futon mat and my only delemma is that I can not figure out what to fill it with. I want to use organic cotton bating and possibly have some kind of comfy foam in one layer. Its gotta be roll-up-able and such. With the foam, I'm not sure what it is... where to get it... or if i should get it in tiny little squares that act as filler or as a pad. Any suggestions?

Topic by janesbigdream    |  last reply


Spray Painting Help

I'm making a cardboard helmet for my Halloween costume (King Leonidas from 300), and I've run into a dilemma.First of all, I'd like to know if spray paint would stick to car body filler (Bondo), and second, I'd like to know what paints and primers to use to make my helmet look like tarnished metal.Can anybody help? I'm trying to make it look like the helmet in this album.

Topic by omnikin    |  last reply


Cheap Alternative Nose Cones

I am currently working on a new idea in which the nosecone of a model rocket is made from wood putty. Here are the steps: 1. Make a a frame made from a thin piece of balsa. 2. Fill in the four sections with a generous a mount of wood putty or wood filler. 3. Sand using a rough sandpaper, then something finer 4. Attach a dowel to the bottom and add a screw eye Do you think it will work? 

Topic by TheBlackSharpie    |  last reply


What's a use for 'continuous' printer paper? The stuff with the tear-off/hole-punched edges...

I've got a carton of the stuff, and it's just sitting there. Plain white, unlined. I've been using single sheets at a time for drawings or notes, and just tossing the fringes out. They end up in random places around the house. Maybe a notebook? Somehow bind the pages together by the holes, then make it tearaway. Which still leaves half of the tear-stuff floating around. Filler for something? Any ideas?

Question by kernalphage    |  last reply


Advice sought on how to make Plastic mould

I’m trying to repair a folding camping bed. See picsIt has a number of feet and other blocks made of some form of HDPE or similar. I want to recreate these blocks. How can I do so? The material needs to be rigid but not brittle.I can find plaster or gel to make a mould but what material should I use? Is there some sort of binary mixture such as a flexible filler ?I have access to basic tools and power tools but not a lathe nor 3D printingAnother option is to buy a block of HDPE and drill and carve the holes, but where to buy the block (in UK)?

Question by big-bill3    |  last reply


How can I use a 5 gallon water bottle to make a giant bird feeder?

I would like to use a 5 gallon water jug as a bird feeder. It would be mounted on a 4x4 post. There would need to be a hole in the top approx 6 inches in diamer to allow for filling it with sunflower seeds. The top would be covered to keep moister and squirrels from getting into the filler opening and top. I assume the seed would pour out of the bottom (mouth) of the jug and controlled by a feeding tray of some sort. I would want it framed for sturdiness with either wood or PVC pipe.

Question by EasySugar    |  last reply


Jig-A-Patch Spray Spackle Review

The makers of Jig-A-Patch sprayable spackling drywall filler sent us a can of their product, and asked someone from Instructables to review it. Over the weekend, I smashed a wall carrying something up the stairs, and had the opportunity to try it out. The packaging is pretty cool, but the spackle itself is too liquid, and flows too easily. After spraying on enough to fill the hole, smoothing it flat, and removing excess, it still tended to flow out of the gash leaving a dimple. After letting it dry, I had to put on another coat of regular spackle, which worked perfectly.I'll stick with regular spackle for now.

Topic by ewilhelm    |  last reply


What can i make from this?

'I have a whole bunch of "expansion tanks" that I would like to use for something but don't know exactly what to make from them. They are about 12" wide maybe 15" high, spherical, have a bicycle style filler valve on one side, a threaded hole on the other (approximately 1" male pipe thread) and they hold 12 liters. They have a rubber bladder inside. the original use was as an accumulator on a cooling system. Other than cutting it in half and using it for a small grill I don't have any other ideas. They are rated for 3 bar of pressure (about 45 PSI) working pressure. The exact thing I have is in this PDF. http://www.reflex.de/reflex/pdf_engl/PI0106e_4_9571018_reflex_engl.pdf

Question by aaronlittle77    |  last reply


I joined 2 pieces of pine together. How can I make the seam invisible?

I am replacing the stair treads in my house by removing the carpet and then replacing them with pine treads bought from Lowe's.  The problem is I have 2 stairs that are longer than the 4' tread.  I joined two pieces together to make a longer one using a dowel rig, glued them together, and clamped them until dry. Unfortunately the pieces weren't completely matched up so I used wood filler and sanded until smooth. After painting the board with black porch paint I can see the seam.  Any ideas on how to get rid of the visible line? Thanks in advance.

Question by jcliller    |  last reply


NIMBY 5 Year Birthday Party - March 28th

Who can believe we have been doing it wrong at NIMBY for 5 years? Come see the Bay Area's largest and most prolific industrial art/ DIY space in it's new 64,000 square foot location. NIMBY 5 year anniversary party featuring: The Life Sized Mouse Trap, Esmerelda Strange, art by Ryon Gesink, Wink and Yoni, The Disgusting Spectacle, DJ Zeljko, Fatwater, live art by Jordan Fillers, art by the Museum of Unnatural Selection, therm's robots, art by Janine Miller, art by Orion Fredericks, Brian Kenny Fresno, Glen Meadmore, DJ Big Daddy March 28th 9 pm $10 to enter 8410 Amelia Street, Oakland www.nimbyspace.org

Topic by rachaelb    |  last reply


I need to know how to make a dash board like in a papermache way so I can make a mold. cheap to nearly free is preferred

I have the rare opportunity to create a new interior for an aging kit car. I know what I need to do. I have the design, but little to no money. How can I create say the dash, and center console? Im looking to eventually make a mold of this so it can be replicated. I was thinking of eventually using glass resin body filler as a final fascia to provide an eventually super smooth surface once the carving and modifying is complete. Im talking to a master molds man in a few days, but could use some ideas for a construction materials to start with. So I can get to the point of making a mold for it, and start replicating my construction. Any ideas?

Question by ydeardorff    |  last reply


Making a dwarf welding helmet out of fiberglass.

Hey everyone, I've been thinking about a new project lately. And for that I need a lot of tips. So here is what, why and how. Introduction: I'm currently making a welding helmet out of an old beer keg as in the instructable of bricobart. When I started with it I though about using the keg as sheet material to make a papercraft mask, probably Dr. Doom or the ABC warrior Hammerstein from the first Judge Dredd movie. I quickly realised it wouldn't provide me the result I like to have, so now I'm just making the 'simple' version from bricobart. But I don't give up that easily. I also want to make something out of fiberglass and epoxy resin for a while, just to have the experience and to try it. So my quest for the perfect helmet/mask continued. I found Fallout helmets, which have tubing on which I could attach a breathing device. But finally I came to this Erebor helmet from the Hobbit. The plan: The plan is to make the Erebor helmet with a hinged visor. I am planning on using several pepakura helmet models and combine them to make the helmet suitable for my welding purpose. The hinged visor and all other mechanics like that I can work out myself. The paper helmet will then be covered with epoxy and fiberglass as can be seen in several other instructables. To make it smooth and for details, I will use car body filler. (I already know EVA foam is the better choice for the helmet, but I don't trust is with the temperature of the welding and I read things about epoxy resins not werking properly on EVA foam.) However, I never used epoxy resin/fiberglass/car body filler or any of these kind of materials. So therefor I need al the help I can get from here. What kind of stuff is suitable for my welding helmet due to high temperature (gradient)? What is the best way to go so all parts will connect properly? Is it wise to start this project?(Please don't answer no, because I will probably won't listen). Painting tips, epoxy tips, general tips etc. Thanks in advance.

Topic by ruudcreates    |  last reply


Scratched glass fixes? I accidentally scratched the mirrors in my bathroom when sanding the frame. Can this be fixed?

I was in the process of sanding down the wooden frames of my bathroom mirrors preparatory to refinishing them, and I didn't take the mirrors out first (duh!) Anyway, I was using 40 grit sandpaper, because the wood was pretty badly damaged from years of use without proper care, and ended up with some deep and ugly scratches in the glass. Biggest problem is that I'm just renting, so I'd really like to fix the problem before it is noticed by the owner, and having the mirrors replaced would be a financial pain in the neck, to say the least. So, does anybody have any ideas about fixing the scratches? Can I do something like I would with wood, using finer sandpaper in sequence, or will I just have more scratches of varying width and depth? How about buffing or polishing with or without some sort of filler?

Question by artisandyke    |  last reply


How do you repair a broken ceramic piggy bank? Answered

My sister's piggy bank broke and she is REALLY torn up about it  (she got it forChristmas and she has broken a bunch of glass lately) and i want to fix it, it is mostly in large pieces, what adhesive, glue, filler, paint should I use? Please respond fast! Thanks! http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&safe;=off&sa;=X&biw;=1400&bih;=959&tbm;=isch&prmd;=imvns&tbnid;=Egziqd0BezZXkM:&imgrefurl;=http://www.ohdeedoh.com/ohdeedoh/decorative-accessories-pillows/ugly-dolls-can-save-your-pennies-142081&docid;=87LBDC8Zpw67qM&imgurl;=http://i-cdn.apartmenttherapy.com/uimages/ohdeedoh/032110-ugly.jpg&w;=540&h;=351&ei;=ThX9TrP6MM3sggerhr3iDA&zoom;=1&iact;=hc&vpx;=171&vpy;=479&dur;=1112&hovh;=181&hovw;=279&tx;=101&ty;=91&sig;=110872985198211297103&page;=1&tbnh;=118&tbnw;=181&start;=0&ndsp;=34&ved;=1t:429,r:14,s:0

Question by Zaphod Beeblebrox    |  last reply


Caffeinated mint candies

Okay so my latest project is making caffeinated hard mint candies. I finished the first batch the other day (pictured below). I worked out a safe and easy way to remove the binders and fillers from the caffeine tablets I picked up, and the stuff tastes pretty good too. The candies apparently work pretty well too; they kept me awake through two early morning chemistry classes on Friday. Unfortunately, there's a couple of problems I'm having that I'd appreciate a bit of help with, if there are any candy-makers out there. First, the mint and vanilla extracts I'm using seem to vaporize out of the candy too quickly, and the blue colouring decomposes when the candy gets to the correct temperature. Does anyone know if it would work to take the pot off the stove and leave it a few minutes before adding flavourings and colour? Second, to make the actual candy pieces, I stretched the candy mass into a long rod and chopped pieces off with a cleaver, but the pieces vary wildly in size (and therefore caffeine dosage). Does anyone know of a way to make more uniform pieces, or do I just need more practice? Thanks, with any luck, I'll be able to make an instructable of the second batch.

Topic by Ro]x[as    |  last reply


What material i should use to make Alphonse Elric armor?

I want to make the Alphonse Elric cosplay(armored one). i am thinking follow this method; 1) i will print the pdo files using pepakura designer(although i dont know exactly how to scale them and which paper size i should print to) 2) i will put paper patterns to cardboard and cut them 3) Combine and hot glued parts 4) apply body filler to outer surface 5) sanding 6) painting all i want to ask is that can this method work to make a good Al's armor? Can you suggest anything else. This will be my first armor craft. Also i have been thinking about Goldy's Alphonse elric armor tutorial. He used different materials like polyurethan foam some adhesives and vinyl. His Al cosplay is the best i think but the materials he used are difficult to supply here in my city should i use these materials and start from 2nd step above(except sanding and painting) or can i go with cardboard method. Also can you give me advices for both techniques. Thanks...

Question by melrajas    |  last reply


2 projects, 2 questions. help? Answered

Hi everybody i have 2 new projects i am working on, and i had some questions about them: 1-wirelessly (bluetooth) controlled LED So this is more or less a starter project, i just got a new laptop with bluetoth and i want to experiment, i figured being able to turn an led on and off via bluetooth would be a good start. 2-Webcam that fits in a PCMCIA slot filler card I think that this project has a better chance of actually being finished than the one above... along with my new laptop, i got one that had a broken screen, it also had a built in webcam. (acer travelmate 5530, the bottom will be used in some other project) I removed the webcam and later i had the thought that maybe it was thin enough to fit in a pcmcia slot. almost. the question here is if i sanded down the plastic parts on the top of the lens (not the lens itself, there is a bit of plastic that bevels around the lens) to the point where it would be thin enough, could someone help me find a pinout of the webcam? all i know is that its usb 2.0, but the connector has 5 wires, 2 of them are ground, but the data + and - and vcc are unknown, the wire colors are different than a normal usb color code. I cannot upload pictures quite yet but i will as soon as i can.

Question by zack247    |  last reply


Building an ultrasonic soldering station ?

I have some strage projects coming up that will require me to solder things together that usually don't really like this.In my past job this was quite easy as we had an ultrasonic soldering bath and several ultrasonic soldering stations.Well, the access to those is gone :(At first I thought "How hard can it be to build one?"Not really too hard for a half decent soldering bath but a lot harder for a soldering iron...The soldering stations we used operated in the range of 50-60kHz.Commonly available transducers and their drivers however you find for 28 and 40kHz.Finding small ones in the range of 10 to 20W is also not easy.I can deal with a soldering iron that ends up in the size of a 500W wood burning iron as long as the tip is replacable.But what are the frequencies really required to solder for example on ceramic, titanium or lab grade glass?Does anyone have experience with doing this on lower frequencies than what the professional stations use?Last but not least:Is there any software available (preferably free or as an online tool) to simulate the quite long feed horn that is required with a soldering tip?Going with 1/4 wavelenghts is logical but how could I get the info on the actual shape required without simulating it first?I was thinking of using a heater cartridge like used for the hotend on a 3D printer to heat the tip.However, tests on my ultrasonic actuator showed the entire thing disintegrates within a few minutes, at least the filler and "glue" used to hold it all together.Would a free standing heating coil around the tip work?Heat transfer would be a pain and losses high, but should be possible?In case you wonder why: I just don't ave the thausands of dollars at hand required to buy one of these soldering stations....

Question by Downunder35m    |  last reply


One Piece should come back!

Recently I've been wanting to watch One Piece, since I heard that FUNimation had begun dubbing it. Apparently this had happened about a year ago, but since I had stopped watching it on Cartoon Network, I didn't know till I saw an episode with different voices. It was great! A lot of stuff was cut out in the 4kids dub, and the voices were downright awful. Especially sanji's retarded voiceAnyway, the FUNimation dub is really more loyal to the original, and featured a lot of things 4kids left out, like blood, dialogue, or even entire arcs! They cut out one part about a whale and a lighthouse, which at the time didn't seem like much more than filler, but as it turns out, was the background story for a new friggin crew member! So basically, 4kids had completely ruined continuity. The FUNimation dubs on CN was the best thing that ever happened! Yup! All 15 episodes it ran. CN canceled it for no friggin reason, even though the FUNimation dub was quickly gaining much higher ratings than the 4kids one.The main reason I am angry, is that I can't watch the GOOD version o One Piece on tv, because CN is stupid. And I can't watch it on the internet, because FUNimation is too copyright...y... And the DVDs are quite expensive. I can't watch 4kids version now, knowing all the stuff that's missing. All the wounds that should be there. All the facts that have been ignored. All the 9 year old voices on 20 year old men. All the serious themes dumbed down for stupid 8 year with their fingers up their noses! (okay, so my finger is in my nose now, but that's not the point!Basically, this is a rant. Anyway, if anyone likes One Piece, please discuss how idiotic and retarted 4kids is, and how you hope they get ****ed in the *** with an iron stick hard from multiple angles for making a great series just udder ****!

Topic by Keith-Kid    |  last reply


Make Cement From Scratch? Answered

I have spent a great deal of time working on this question yet, I have no solid answer to go on.  I tend to enjoy acquiring a skill set which would be very useful come TEOTWAWKI (the end of the world as we know it).  I am far from a prepper, however I still entertain a slight possibility and see no problem with learning how to do a little more than cope. These skills extend from knowing where to grow, gather, and how to store penicillin to simple things like a yeast starter 100% from scratch.  Brewing and distilling are also handy because it makes a great trade item.  These are all things you never see in the Walking Dead or any other TEOTWAWKI cinema.  One of the more important skills I believe would be conjuring fortress walls from rocks in the form of a little thing we know as concrete which we all take for granted.  Now I could mix portland cement and filler with some water all day long and make a pretty cool fortess, but seriously.  All the home depots in my state wouldn't have enough quick rite for that.  So today I wan't to know what general rocks and minerals (that you can find in nature) can you combine to make cement.  I know there are all kinds of fancy names for these, but what I really need is some good old generalities.  Tell me to go outside grab a handful of clayish dirt, but it in a kiln with some lime and grind it up.  I'm not looking for top of the line stuff here, this just needs to be able to hold a general form for a few years and be a little bullet resistant.  This is for a crude fort, not the tallest building in the world or the hoover dam.  A simple mortar would also be nice, although there really aren't any stones around to put together, bricks aren't super hard to make with as much clay as we have in our soil. So join me and maybe I will put together an instructible on all the skills you actually need but don't have!

Question by jj.inc    |  last reply


Waterglass or Liquid Glass

Back when I was a kid I had a little chimistry set and part of it were instructions on how to create your own chmical garden in a jar.The metal salts only "grow" in the areas with lots of water while being cured into somthing more solid when it contacts the waterglass.Quite nice trick for kids of all ages.Another and commercail use is as a binder for refractory uses.On a home level you can just crush up some vermiculite and perlite to create solid and light weight fire bricks or plate - with just waterglass as the binder.Although for this purpose you want a higher amount of cat litter in your mix.Cat litter???Yes, cat litter is the same as silica beads but it dissolves much easier in the reaction with sodium hydroxide, or drain cleaner.60g of crystal cat litter, 80g of sodium hydroxide, 100ml of water.Mix it carefully and without getting too much sodium hydroxide in the mix to quickly and you have a jar of watergalls - easy...But there is other uses too, like you could see in my Ible about making your own ferrite.In some areas it is still used as a flame retardant or to fireproof materials that otherwise would combust too quickly.Wood that was vacuum treated with waterglass and fully dried turns into a rock like substance that looks beautiful once polished.And it has a really hard time burning...As it cures like glass with just little heat it was used in Fukushima by injecting it into the soil to form a barrier for the radioactive water.The heat from the radiactive water helped curing the mix...You can even use it to repair your cracked potter and glassware..Holes or leaks in your exhaust system? What a pain if you are too short on money to replace the parts.So a lot of us pay quite a bit of money for repair putties and bandages to seal the lak at least for long enough to consider a real fix.Did you know that all these putties and such are nothing but waterglass, glass fibres and filler material?The later often just very fine sand.Easy to make you own in bucket loads for less than what the repair kit costs LOLA total pain in the behind is if your old car gets a water leak.Usually it is a seal on the pump, a hole in the radiator or a tiny crack.One to to fix it for a while is to add an egg white to your cold radiator water or coolant.Then go for a drive and the egg white will boil off and dry where it comes into contact with air - outside you problem.Works remarkably well and won't harm any part of your engine either.Only downside is that it usually only lasts for a few days, being a natural product and such.Some people though claim they got weeks or even months out of such a cheap fix.A btter and more permanent way to seal such tiny leaks is to use waterglass mixed into the cooling system.It will form a lasting glass like seal that has no issiues under high heat or pressure.It even fixes your leaking head gasket if the water goes not get into the oil jet.Oil getting into the water might still still be fixable with waterglass.Water in the oil means the waterglass could enter the oil and if that happens you end with glass in your moving engine bits.A sure way to kill every engine and used to properly destroy them for recyling purposes by law in some countries.Waterglass is added to the engine oil and then it runs until hot enough for the water to evaporate.At this point the engine and all bearings just permantly seize.Waterglass added to cement provides a good barrier for oil and other liquids, making a spill cleanup much easier as the spill can't really penetrate the concrete.My personal favourite though is to use it for the easy removal of unwanted paint gretings on walls and such.You know how some kids think that a spray can with paint and a clean wall make artwork...If said wall is "painted" with a a mix of waterglass and sugar the spray paint will stick as good as before.But then you come with a pressure washer and clean it off in a few minutes and without any traces left on the wall.Sadly you need to re-apply the protective coating before the kid with the spray can comes back next night...What are your uses for liquid glass?

Topic by Downunder35m  


John Cleese's "Letter To America"

Forwarded along by an Aussie. Enjoy.Dear Citizens of America,In view of your failure to elect a competent President and thus to govern yourselves, we hereby give notice of the revocation of your independence, effective immediately. Her Sovereign Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II, will resume monarchical duties over all states, commonwealths and other territories (except Kansas, which she does not fancy), as from Monday next.Your new prime minister, Gordon Brown, will appoint a governor for America without the need for further elections. Congress and the Senate will be disbanded. A questionnaire may be circulated next year to determine whether any of you noticed.To aid in the transition to a British Crown Dependency, the following rules are introduced with immediate effect:1. You should look up "revocation" in the Oxford English Dictionary. Then look up "aluminium," and check the pronunciation guide. You will be amazed at just how wrongly you have been pronouncing it.2. The letter "U" will be reinstated in words such as "colour", "favour" and "neighbour." Likewise, you will learn to spell "doughnut" without skipping half the letters, and the suffix "-ize" will be replaced by the suffix "-ise."3. You will learn that the suffix "burgh" is pronounced "burra"; you may elect to spell Pittsburgh as "Pittsberg" if you find you simply can't cope with correct pronunciation.4. Generally, you will be expected to raise your vocabulary to acceptable levels (look up "vocabulary"). Using the same twenty-seven words interspersed with filler noises such as "like" and "you know" is an unacceptable and inefficient form of communication.5. There is no such thing as "US English." We will let Microsoft know on your behalf. The Microsoft spell-checker will be adjusted to take account of the reinstated letter "u" and the elimination of "-ize."6. You will relearn your original national anthem, "God Save The Queen," but only after fully carrying out Task #1 (see above).7. July 4th will no longer be celebrated as a holiday. November 2nd willbe a new national holiday, but to be celebrated only in England. It will be called "Come-Uppance Day." 8. You will learn to resolve personal issues without using guns, lawyers or therapists. The fact that you need so many lawyers and therapists shows that you're not adult enough to be independent. Guns should only be handled by adults. If you're not adult enough to sort things out without suing someone or speaking to a therapist then you're not grown up enough to handle a gun.9. Therefore, you will no longer be allowed to own or carry anything more dangerous than a vegetable peeler. A permit will be required if you wish to carry a vegetable peeler in public.10. All American cars are hereby banned. They are crap and this is for your own good. When we show you German cars, you will understand what we mean.11. All intersections will be replaced with roundabouts, and you will start driving on the left with immediate effect. At the same time, you will go metric immediately and without the benefit of conversion tables. Both roundabouts and metrification will help you understand the British sense of humour.12. The Former USA will adopt UK prices on petrol (which you have been calling "gasoline") - roughly $8/US per gallon. Get used to it.13. You will learn to make real chips. Those things you call french fries are not real chips, and those things you insist on calling potato chips are properly called "crisps." Real chips are thick cut, fried in animal fat, and dressed not with catsup but with malt vinegar.14. Waiters and waitresses will be trained to be more aggressive with customers.15. The cold tasteless stuff you insist on calling beer is not actually beer at all. Henceforth, only proper British Bitter will be referred to as "beer," and European brews of known and accepted provenance will be referred to as "Lager." American brands will be referred to as "Near-Frozen Gnat's Urine," so that all can be sold without risk of further confusion.16. Hollywood will be required occasionally to cast English actors as good guys. Hollywood will also be required to cast English actors as English characters. Watching Andie MacDowell attempt English dialogue in "Four Weddings and a Funeral" was an experience akin to having one's ear removed with a cheese grater.17. You will cease playing American "football." There is only one kind of proper football; you call it "soccer." Those of you brave enough, in time, will be allowed to play rugby (which has some similarities to American "football," but does not involve stopping for a rest every twenty seconds or wearing full kevlar body armour like a bunch of Jessies - English slang for "Big Girls Blouse").18. Further, you will stop playing baseball. It is not reasonable to host an event called the "World Series" for a game which is not played outside of America. Since only 2.1% of you are aware that there is a world beyond your borders, your error is understandable and forgiven.19. You must tell us who killed JFK. It's been driving us mad.20. An internal revenue agent (i.e. tax collector) from Her Majesty's Government will be with you shortly to ensure the acquisition of all monies due, backdated to 1776.Thank you for your co-operation.John CleeseLink

Topic by canida    |  last reply


Game Design Team looking for help "Guardian"

Unity 3D: Game Engine Currently Seeking: Programmers, Animators, GUI Art, Concept Artist, 3D Modelers, Writers, Composers, and People with great ideas. All work Copyright © 2012 by Boundless Game Studios Written by Casey Williams Version # 1.00 Wednesday, January 11, 2012 Overall Game Information: “Guardian” is a third person view and first person view adventure game that will allow the player to play as a hero on a quest to find the truth of the evils in his land . But, with the help of his guardian that watches over him from above. The guardian will fuse into your weapon and guide you through the hero’s world and conquer evil. On the way you will discover special fragments of fallen stars in all different sorts of ways that can alter your blade, skills, and powers. Our game will run on Mac and PC computers. The game will be free to play. Plot: A Valenian boy named Swen meets his Guardian (Bounda) that will need his help to find a fallen Guardian who has gone corrupt and has fused with his own partner from Valenia to destroy both Swen’s and Bounda’s worlds. So, the myth of the Crescents are true to Swen’s people. They believe that everyone has someone watching over them from the moon. Guardians or Crescents are not supposed to leave their world and travel down to Valenia or fuse body/soul/ and mind with their partner. Features: The game will feature live action battles, treasure hunting, altering Swen’s main weapon with rare fragments of fallen Stars, renaming weapons, voice overs for characters, currency system, text on screen system, choice of being good or bad, orchestral music, books with short stories and valuable information, some magic, and more ideas to come.. Genre: The game is an action adventure fantasy game with cartoon style art. Target Audience: The game is for anyone of any age. No bad language or gore. A little violence. Views: Guardian will be in third person view and in first person as well. Game Scope: There will be at least 5-6 towns or more to explore. The world terrain will be separate from the town. Different zones will load the player to new terrain scene or towns. etc.. There will be 6-10 N.P.C.S each at least in a town that will have some purpose in the game. Filler N.P.C. will be added to. There will be a lot of different weapons like Swords, axes, bows, and a few unique ones. Timeline: This project has no set date to be finished at any certain time at the moment. Common And FAQ: What is Guardian about? “Guardian” is a computer game being developed by Boundless Game Studios © that has an adventure/fantasy genre with a toon style. It features a character name Swen who’s name can be changed by the player at the beginning of the game. Swen will have to embark on a great journey with some help from his guardian Bounda. A fallen guardian from the sky has fused with the person he/she sworn to protect. Now chaos has been let out in Swen’s world. Tell me about the setting and the feel of the game? The setting takes place in a vibrant and colorful world known as Valenia. Also, a few glimpses of Bounda’s unknown world Anaira. “Guardian” will give the player a feeling of adventure, curiosity, and a rush in battle. The game art will be beautiful. How is the combat in the game? The fighting in the game will have preset combinations like swinging your weapon left, right, vertical, down. If you press the attack button once there is only one attack action. Press multiple times and this will give you more attacks with Swen’s sword. There will be more special sword attacks. You will also be able to have 3 items/weapons equipped at a time. This does not include your sword but does for shields. So be careful what you equip. Player can target enemies. Who do I play as? The main character is Swen and you control his role in the game. Which is the hero. Dialogue? Yes the game will have scrolling text and possibly voice dialogue. The player will be able to pick 1-3 choices to reply back with. Does Swen talk? Not literally but he does through the choices you make. He does have sound effects though. How are the camera controls? The game includes a button that will give u a fast switch between camera views. Ex. 3rd person view to first person view. Camera view will adjust to enemies that are targeted. Use the mouse to use the rotating view or simply don’t press any buttons for a minute to auto switch to rotating view. What are the main features in the game? You know the cool stuff? The team would really like to focus on the gameplay, story, and all the cool places, items, or weapons to discovered. The main sword can be altered many times (shapes of blades) which will give that certain sword an effect like extra damage, fire, ice, more magic, and more. How about getting to name your sword? Tired of using your sword and want to shoot something with a bow? maybe a blow gun? Well switch to first person and fire away! Selling treasure. Reading books to find short stories or VALUABLE information. Don’t forget the easter eggs.. There will be more features listed in the future.This game will be free for everyone. Doesn't matter if your new or a veteran. You can come and go on the project. It will be fun to have a lot of people helping out. I am aware that people like seeing progress before they are willing to lend out a helping hand.I will make sure everything goes smoothly as possible. My team mates and I talk on Skype everyday. I feel its important to get to know everyone as well and working with them. I don't want this to be work. Lets have fun. Please do not post negative comments. I'm looking for people interested and not downers. Skewl made the 3d model of the blue bird. Skype: CaseySWilliams52 email : BoundlessgameStudios@gmail.com or kcwilliams52@hotmail.com Website: http://www.boundlessgamestudios.com/ Come by the site, register and tell us what you would like in the game, also see videos, pictures, talk about the game, or ask to be on Team Boundless. Thanks for reading. -Casey

Topic by BoundlessStudios    |  last reply


Summer, sun and what to do with faded plastics

A lot of us have machine, bikes or such with plastic parts.And if you are in a country where a UV rating of 10 is a nice spring day already plastics seem to fade away and fail quicker.Over the years I experimented with a lot of things to either prevent this or to fix it.If you ever had your old farm basher parked next to the same but sun protect model you almost start crying LOLColors look like you painted a white haze over it, white plastics turn yelloish and clear plastic, like on the head lamps of your car go dull and yellow.You might know what I mean if have really nice and long summers...So what is the reason for this problem that only seems to affect things in hot and sunny countries?A lot of plastics are actually fully UV resistant and they won't be harmed or changed.Great but they still suffer! ?Not really, it is the softeners, fillers and pigments that suffer most.In the case of clear plastics it is usually polycarbonate mixes and the culprit is the scratch resistant coating applied on it.The hard UV rays promote the oxidisation and break down.So whatever is not resistant to UV will suffer in and mostly on the outside of the plastic.Problem is that UV penetrates quite deep and as a result we often find that UV protecting agents are added.Sometimes as a coating, sometimes as a mix throughout.Older cars often show peeling paint onthe roof or boot lid - the UV protecting in the coating has failed or was just bad.Back in the old days there was whiteners in washing powder, we had white sheets for the beds and other things and leaving them in the sun to dry actually made them whiter and kept them looking fresh - a positive use for UV bleeching ;)In terms of real prevention options are almsot fully limited to keeping the xposure as low and short as possible.There is no clear coating you can apply to keep the UV out that won't affect the looks of the paint job or plastic.And not all of these coating work on all plastics.One option though is to keep the plastic clean and shiny.A highly reflective surface will not scatter the sunlight as much throughout the plastic.Oxidisation is limited as well, especially if you add some polish every now and then.In a lot of cases though this is either no option or way too time consuming for us to keep it up.As a result we start to neglect the routing here and there andover they years the plastic ages faster than what it should.How to fix or restored faded plastic without paying an arm and a leg for specialised products?White is always nice and if you have a washing machine or fridge close enough to a window you might have noticed over the years that the plastic parts now appear a bit darker or slightly yellow, often just on one side of the thing...Old electronics, like Gameboys are doing this too.Red is my other favourite as like black it produces a white haze easy.Either way the solution is pretty much the same: reduce the oxidisation by oxidising it more ;)Whatever is really oxidised in a bad way changed the color instead of just breaking dow the pigments.UV does this...On the other hand hydrogen peroxide bleeches and breaks down stains....As long as parts are small enough it is quite easy to put them in a zip lock bag to submerge them for a few hours or over night in hydrogen peroxide.Otherwise use a suitable container and keep turning and moving the parts around every hour or so until all looks even again.In severe cases and if the plastic permits it you can also add a small amount of diluted hydrochloric acid.Talking diluted! So that means of a low concentration!In most cases though a day or two with just hydrogen peroxide will suffice.Do a little test first though as some plastics might just be caoted and either show no reaction at all or the coating has pigment that break down in the peroxide - I never had this happen to me but I have read reports of it and seen the pics of the results.When it comes to really big parts, like the spoiler on your car or plastic covers on your bike and boat it can be impossible to submerge them even partially.In most cases people try to fix these by polishing them until the faded areas are litterally removed.A much nicer and easier way to cheat is to use a simple car polish that is suitable for plastic parts.Means it should have no warning on it to keep away for plastic parts ;)Wearing proper gloves you can add some hydrogen peroxide to a small amount of the polish.And I mean polish, not the stuff to fix a dull or bad paint - what you would use on a new car...The trick is that the polishing cleans the surface while the peroxide works on the staining and fading.You just don't let the stuff dry after applying it and polish the dry stufff of, you keep going wet until your color comes back ;)After that give it a final polish the normal way with just the polishing compound and no peroxide.Clear plastic...If it is just yor headlamps or other smaller parts for a once off it might make sense to go to a auto shop and buy a head lamp polishing kit.Thing with clear plastics is that only too often they come in shapes or installations that make a full access impossible.Like your head lamps that you can only reach from the front as they are glued into the assembly.Another problem is that they are aslo almost always coated with some protective stuff.If hydrogen peroxide alone does not help here then polishing will always remove some of this coating or even all of it.If the coating happens to be the culprit of the fading and yellowing then you of course get it all nice and shiny by just polishing the coating off - but you also loose all benefits of the coating.Some car models have headlamps where just the coating discolors and once removed the plastic start to crack under the exposure from UV and through all the tiny damages it get when driving around.For things like clear covers over a little display there is the problem as access as you might not be able to remove the window pane, a replacement might be the best option.Hey! Why all the fuzz? I use just oil and it works perfectly!!You can find online videos and full tutorials where people show you that just a bit of some oil and polishing it off with a lint free cloth brings all you faded colors back out again.Don't be fooled just because it works so great!Take a frosted piece of glass and put some oil on it and it becomes clear enough to see through again.Even works with very thin paper...What the oil really deos is to coat all these microscopic imperfections.And with the light now having a very easy way to get through it won't scatter anymore and the fading appears to be gone.Once the oil is gone the plastic looks as bad as before, hence the need to use an oil that dries off.Worst thing is that these oil affect the softeners in the plastic.In some cases this might be benefitial in most it is really bad though.Like any other solvent the oil mixes with these softeners and over time they are removed from the plastic, the more you use oil to keep it shine the more brittle you plastic might get.Once you did that it is next to impossible to remove the oil from within the damaged plastic and only way out i to polish it off after sanding it.The benefit of seemingly protecting the plastic from dirt and water is short lived as well.Some old oil you got on it would just wipe off but with the added oil in the plastic it can now penetrate.And that little black dot becomes hard to get rid of...Last words of wisdom:Check the type of plastic before you decide on anything!Especially when it comes to the black plastic with fibre re-inforcements.Do a tiny spot test in an area that is not so important before going full scale!Trust me, nothing is worse than only realising too late you selecting of choice is actually removing the pigments from the plastic - hint: if your cloth tunrs into the same color as your plastic then something is wrong.Use PPE! Gloves and face shield or at least goggle are a must have when working with hydrogen peroxide or acids.Even at just 3% the peroxide will bleech your skin quickly and long exposure won't be better either.Once you got a drop of peroxide in your eye you will never forget the googles, so just wear them right away please ;)If the fading is due to the breakdown of pigments that give the color like a white haze on red or blue plastic you might still have to polish off that thinnest layer on the surface to remove the fully bleached out layer.This however is really quickly done and after that the smooth surface will last much longer.Work clean!! It is of no use to start before you actually fully cleaned the plastic!

Topic by Downunder35m  


3D printing filament recycling guide

If you print a lot then you also have a lot of plastic to waste.Support structures, brims, failed parts....At some stage you start to wonder if it makes sense to invest into a filament extruder.A filament extruder is a simple way to make you own filament.A 25kg bag of granules in ABS cost only a few bucks and it will last like forever.It also the prefered choice for a plastic extruder of any sort - fresh, new and clean material!I do collect a lot of leftover plastic from my projects, is it worth getting a machine to recycle it?Trust the advertisements of the commercially available models you buy one right away - if you can afford it...But there is always a catch!What are the basic requirements when collecting you already used filament?It would be easier to state what you should avoid at all costs, so let me start with the most forgiving filament types - ABS and PLA....Both will require that you keep your filament clean at all costs.You want dust removed before the filament even enters you print head and same for all that you want to recycle.Conatminents are the biggest deal breaker when you recycle filament!!!That means parts of dissimilar materials,like when printing with two heads are just rubbish and go in the recycling bin outside.The difference between ABS and PLS for recycling comes with the material properties.ABS, if not printed too hot does not change too much, PLA on the other side usually ends up to be more brittle than new filament.ABS should not be heated too high, same for PLA when you recycle.But when PLA gets too hot it not only becomes really runny but also deteriotes very quickly.Run a bit of PLA through print head like when changing filament or cleaning the head.Do one run at normal temperatur, one run at 240°C and compare how the extruded and colled string reacts ;)PLA is also prone to oxidisation and burning, espcially the black type is tricky here as you won't be able to see it, so avoid black if possible.If it happens then you end up with rock hard piece, the size depends and can be tiny or bigger than a grain of sand.A total nightmare if you did not spot that black spot in the filament and let the recycled stuff run through your printer.A total block of the nozzle is the result.Nylon I can't really recommend for recycling, too complext to handle it properly.Same for filled filament like the wood or metal types.With them it is really easy to accumulate a lump of filler that does the same block to your nozzle.To wash or not to wash....No matter what you try there will be always some contaminents that end in your collected material.ABS can be washed with water and does not require too much fancy drying.If in doubt you can even try your dishwasher or with a good bag your washing machine - both require proper rinsing several times and the last run with some added alcohol to demineralised or destilled water.I use a box with a flyscreen cover and let it dry outside in the sun for a while.PLA does not go too well with water especially with added soaps or detergents.On the other hand it has no big problems tolerate things like Acetone.Downside such solvents also dissolve a lot of contaminats which mean even though you can recycle your washing Acetone many, many time you always need fresh Acetone for the rinsing.If you can try too keep all as clean as possible to eliminate the need for washing.Can I get better results from my cheap filament maker or the one I build for some online instructions?I find that there is always room to improve on things.Before you even think about extruding your home made filament think about how to get your failed print into the thing ! ;)The most vital part comes before you even heat the machine unless it is a really fancy one with a build in and big enough shredder.That is right you need a shredder of sorts to be able to get your recycled material fine enough for the filament maker.Some models you might quickly find as tutorials to build your own use basically a big wood drill for the mechanical part to simulate a meat grinder for plastic.Even the better ones for real money often use this basic system in one way or another.The problem is that you need to get all air out the material before it ends up to be the outgoing string you roll up.Any bubbles in filament will certainly have consequences if the bubble appears during the printing of visible areas.Imagine printing in vase mode and hitting a bubble during the last 20 minutes of a 3 hour print...Unless it is dirt simple hobby built there will some mechanism to deal with the air.However if what goes in is already very fine material it melts easier and air has it a lot easier to find a way out.A good shredder will produce quite small granules but not strips or blocks.The have their limits for intake size though.The best way to get through bigger builds is a band saw, if have a clean table you can even recycle the "saw dust".I prefer to heat bigger parts in the oven at moderate temps and then to use a hammer or press to flatten it first.No shredder or no money to add one to the list? No problem!If your filament maker does not have a pre-heated feeding area of sorts it makes sense to add one with aheating mantle and external temperature controller.Trust me, if you have odd stuff to push in it is way easier if the material softens already before it enter the extruder drive part.As the extruder will get quite warm anyway it can be as simple as adding a short pipe section with the heating mantle between the extruder inlet and feeding funnel or hopper.the temperature in theis areas should of course be will below melting point and slightly above the temp when the material start to become plyable.Hence the external temp controller here.With this heating in the fedding area you really need to get your recycled material into a suitable size and shape to allow the material to be transported easy into the extruder.Ok, I got it working, sort of...You will need some time to find the prefect temperatures for per-heating, extruder temps and coooling, so take it!If your filament comes out with bubbles or fine (hard and unwanted) particles it makes sense to cheat.Most filament makers include a filter before the melted material enters the nozzle and really hot part.In some cases this filter can be as simple as a steel mesh.If none find ways to add one ;)Said filter screen should be quite fine, preferably even finer that what you find in your faucet that airates thewater for the sink.As a rule of thumb the mesh size should at least 15% finer than the nozzle size you intent to use.Anything that makes it through will only be a problem for your nozzle if a lot of crap comes through and that you should be able to spot right away when the cooled filament comes out.If despite this you still get too many bubbles check first if your temps are not going too high so the plastic start to boil in an area.Too much speed can also cause a failure to expell all air in time, reducing the speed (watch the temps!!) can often resolve this nagging air problem.It it really worth it then?On a hobby level only if you print a lot and know you will keep going like this.Otherwise you really need to be able to source or build your filament maker as cheap as possible.Someone with a little print shop and three machines running 24/7 will certainly have a good benefit over time.Especially if the recycling is part of the overall printing process.Recycled material could be used in a dedicated head and extruder for supports, infills and so on.For example in the printer dedicated to produce the biggest parts as these usually have bigger nozzle sizes anyway.In a commercial sense however it must be considered what the material is worth in terms of normal recycling and the added hours and electricity cost for making your own filament.Unless even the cheapest commercailly available filament still costs much more than what you need to invest to the machines and electricity over the time the man hours are the biggest killer.If you need someone to monitor the filament maker and keep feeding it while making sure the spools wind up correctly then your own spools might end up quite costly.So decide carefully before you invest or use you oven and a mold to make you own recyled plastic bricks for your garden beds and such.

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Looking for a cheap compressor with a high pressure rating or for airbrush use?

Today a friend of mine asked me if I know a way to reduce the noise level of his compressor in the work shed. With the current heat he prefers to work in the evening and nights, which does not make his neighbours too happy. His main use for several airbrush guns and sometimes for mormal airtools or the big spray gun for an undercoat or similar. So his main concern is oil in the airline and the actual flow rate is of second concern as he has an old 25kg propane cyclinder as an additional air tank. For relative low air volumes I would suggest an old fridge compressor. With a thicker pipe at the outlet that is filled with stainless steel wool most of the oil stays in the compressor. That is if this pipe is a) long enough b) upright c) of sufficient diameter so there is enough for the oil to avoid it being pushed up A second, standard oil seperator will be enough for the oil level required for airbrush stuff - and most other things too. If there is no pressure regulator on the airbrush system it is best to add a small air tank and shut off valve for it. In our case however a fridge compressor would be just enough to keep the bigger airbrush gun running but not to fill the tank at the same time. Not to mention the problem of fluctuating pressure levels. Since we already had a tank and pressure shut off connected to the loud compressor it was only a matter of finding something that keeps the neighbours happy. The first thing we did was to check how often the compressor comes on and how long it runs till the tank is back to pressure. With that and the stated air volume on the compressor we guesstimated that something a bit bigger than the compressor of a window airconditioner should be sufficient. The search begins.... If you don't know what to look for I give you a few hints: Older airconditioners often run on R22 or R12 - both use quite high system pressures which is a bonus, but more on that later. As a rule of thumb for these compressors you cans say: the bigger the higher the flow rate. At the local wreckers and scrap yards we found a few units but noticed the bigger ones often used three phases and not just one :( So we opted for the R22 compressor of a 4.5kW unit. Keep in mind the 4.5kW is for the entire system, so the quite massive fans can be removed from the sum. Usually the compressor alone is the 2.5 - 3kW range. Ok, we found the big thing but how does this help us? First things first ;) The oil was removed as the housing stating the original oil amount. This allowed us to use an oil rated for air use that has little to no water absorption qualities - you don't want water in your compressor. With the usual heat the water should be no problem anyway. Next was a pressure test to make sure the thing actually still works, so we added some plumping in the form of standard connectors to the inlet and outlet. We got well above 200PSI and abondoned the test at this stage as it was more than enough already. The air volume seemd to be well more than expected too so let'S move to the next stage. A fridge or aircon compressor always needs to have a certain amount of oil in it as it will otherwise seize and overheat quickly. But they are also designed so that the oil mixes with the refrigerant to cool all moving parts. So the biggest hurdle is to make sure the oil stays where it should stay and won't enter or get lost in the tank. Only real option for this to use something to catch the oil that is capable of releasing it into the compressor once it shuts off. Now there are several options for this so I start with the most basic: A "catch can" will get most of the oil, especially if filled with stainless steel wool or similar. Downside is that you have to find a way to get it back into the compressor. A step better is a thicker pipe filled with stainless steel wool to catch the oil. If placed upright and the outgoing pipe can be bend a bit upwards you have a good chance that most of the oil will sweep through the valves and get back down into the compressor housing. But only too often the cheap or even free compressor is better than expected and the oil won't get back into the housing as the vlaves are just too good. The last and IMHO best option is a pressurised return system. Most compressors for bigger aircons have a seperate filling port or sealed off piece of pipe. In this case you can do a simple check to see if they are usable for our purposes. Open the port of pipe and use a simple bike bump or similar to get some pressure in it. With a dedicated oil filling port you are best off but they are hard to find. The air you pump in should come out of the high pressure side - you might need a little pressure to overcome the valves. If you hear any bubbling in the housing (use a pipe on your ear or a sensitive microphone) it means you are going through the oil inside the compressor - perfect! You might not hear any bubbling but the port or pipe is still usable. Get ready with your fingers and start the compressor. The fill pipe should be sucking air in, same for the service port if there is one. A dedicated oil port should not suck but instead force some oil up if you cover the high pressure outlet. I assume all is good and no oil is splashing out of the open pipe or port. Add a small amount of oil with a syringe or similar into the port/pipe. If you see an oil mist coming out of the high side it is bad news. Clean outlet air is good. To get the oil back from the catch pipe or can we have to add a hose or pipe with a needle valve. It needs to be adjusted so that there is only a very little airflow (or oil mist) coming out. This regulated outlet is now being connect to the port/pipe with a bit of suction that we found earlier. Now every time the compressor runs the collected oil is forced back into the compressor :) Please double check the port/pipe used is not directly connected to the intake port! The last thing you want is a puddle of oil going into the cylinder and damaging it! They are designed to move gas but not liquid! If in doubt use a hardened sttel nail or similar to create a small puncture in the top of the compressor housing if there is nothing else to use. Check first if the material sound very thick, if so it might help to drill with a 5 or 6mm drill first - only about 1mm to make sure you won't enter the housing and conimate it with metal shavings! Once you have a small puncture hole of about 2mm in diameter get some 2 component metal repair glue mix and add a suitable connection for the collecting pipe/can. If you feel up to it you can of course use a blow torch and solder the connection on. Now we have the compressor working with a oil return system that also gives up very little to no oil at all in our system. You might now think you are good to go but you should at least add a decent and fine filter to the air inlet ;) The compressor noise of a bigger system can still be an issue if thicker pipes are used that allow the noise to travel out. Keep in mind they usually run in a fully closed system.... As we only need to match the noise level of the compressor itself a solid steel can like an old fire extinguisher in the 1kg rage is a good way out. Fill it with filter wool and a fine filter pad after adding some hose connectors either end. You can misuse the trigger nozzle and keep it to seal the top if you braze a connector on it. If the intake here is about 5 times larger than the pipe connection to the compressor itself the air flow going into the thing is low enough for a cheap paper air filter can or box if you have a quite dusty enviroment to work with. The real trick is to have a hose or pipe on the inside of the fire extinguisher connected to the compressor pipe connection. A garden hose is great here as is reduces the noise quite good and is dirt cheap. Make a lot of about 2mm sized holes in this pipe and close the other end of it off. Now the compressor will suck it through the small holes and the soft garden hose reduces the noise, the surrounding padding brings it down to basically nothing. The special case of clean air for airbrush.... If you read this for the sole purpose of airbrush use then this chapter is just for you, all other might want to skip it. The two things you don't want to enter your gun is oil or water. Both are a common thing in normal compressors due to lubrication and pressure difference resulting in condensation of the humidity in the intake air. Oil free compressors of good quality can cost quite a few bucks and often require ongoing replacement of membranes or piston seals. A refrigeration compressor with the above modifications already provides clean enough air for most airbrush users if a proper tank is used to store enough of the compressed air. So you might just want to add a basic oil filter or very fine paper filter close to the regulator. For very detailed work with very sensitive paints you might want to build a filter box containing of several layers of oil absorbent paper. This stuff is often used in the industry to clean up minor oil spills and bind oil very well. A PVC pipe (pressure rated please) with 5-8 layers of filter screens should last about a lifetime before the filters need changing if the diameter is in the 10-15cm range. That leaves us with the dreaded problem of condensation and water contamination. Depending on the type of paint and gun used a small amount of water vapour is usually no problem. Solvent based paints usally show their disliking by unwanted drops or run offs caused by water droplets. Of course you just go and buy a professional dehumidifier and accept the ongoing replacement costs for the cartridges... But if you are in a climated that has above 30% humidity for most of the year than you will have to remove the water one way or the other. A big enough storage tank for the air that is upright usually helps to release any condensated water prior to usage. But if you use a homemade tank you might want to avoid this problem completely and forget about water in the system altogehter. Silaca gel is the answer here, specifically the indicating variety that changes color once "full". A spaghetti glas or similar should be big enough unless you are in a very humid climate - is so just use multiple in a row. The air intake side for the compressor has to go through the silica gel to be effictive. This mean we need two holes in the lid. One with a pipe or hose going all the way to the botom - that is the air intake side. The other right on the lid - this is the air outlet side which continues to the compressor intake. With the color change in the silica gel we can estimate how much usage we have left until we have to heat it up to remove the water. If this color change happens quite fast from the bottom to the top, let's say within three days or less than you really need to use more jars with silica gel in a row or a longer one - like using a long and clear acrylic pipe instead. Of course you can always just cut holes and "viewing glasses" along the length to a PVC pipe.... No matter how wet your climate is you want to get at least 100 hours of compressor run time before you need to recharge the silica gel. This brings us to the recharging.... Once the color changes and you only have about one quarter left to the top you want to get the water out of the gel and re-use it. To do this you simply heat it up in your oven to around 120-150°C - the supplier should state the max temp for this. If you use a gas oven or one with limited accuracy here it is best to stay within the 120° range. You need to stir and mix the gel or use something big enough like an oven tray. But be aware that these little balls are like glass! The roll and bounce like no tomorrow! IMHO it best to use an old cooking pot that has no plastic handles for this and not to overfill it. This allows for easy mixing without making a mess that might cause a bad trpping hazard on your kitchen floor tiles! Once the gel is back to original colr it is time to let it cool of to a safe temperature and to fill it back into our canister or pipe. Tanks and shut off systems.... We have a refrigeration compressor working for us, and since it was for R22 we can use much higher pressures as a simple compressor from the hardware store. The low pressure side is used to 70PSI or around 5Bar of pressure in normal working conditions. The high side often works at pressure in the range of 200-300PSI or 14-20Bar! The tank we used is a big propane tank that was restamped at some stage in his life for the use of LPG - so it was tested to quite high pressures. The lower pressure limit is what keeps the stored gas liquid at the given temperature. For Propane at an imaginary 30°C this would around 155PSI or 10Bar. The stamped test pressure, although outdated, showed 600PSI or around 40Bar of pressure with no problems - and the thing was thick in the walls... The old shut off switch from an old air compressor was adjustable after removing the safety cap with a bit of force and the help of few cold beer. With a little tank attached we adjusted it to turn the compressor off at 250PSI or around 17Bar of pressure. If your tank is old or has no test pressure stamped on do your own test in a safe location. Make sure the area is secured so there is no chance of debris from a brusting tank can go anywhere - this includes to chain down the tank itself ;) Use the aircon compressor to fill it up to 300PSI or 20Bar of pressure - this should be tolerated with ease by any propane or LPG tank. Shut the valves and let it rest for a day or so. It is best to do this in the early morning so the heat from the day will slightly increase the pressure. At the end you still want to have a working tank and no major pressure losses. All of our mods on this tank were done without actually harming the tank. This was possible as the original valve had a release port for filling purposes - as it standard on most refillable ones. Here we removed the valve and added a pressure guage instead - better to know what is happening than to assume things. As this "port" had a seperate connection to the bottom of the brass valve we added as T-connection to allow for the connection to the compressor. Just be be really sure a thin piece of copper tubing was brazed to the exit hole of this port so all incoming air will be going down and away from the outlet connection with the big shut off valve on top - which we use to actually isolate and close the tank when not it use. Last thing required was something to connect the pressure shut off switch and regulator to. That was the only major expense on this project as we had no old BBQ hose or similar to get a suitable connector to the tank. We bought a simple adapter for the use of smaller hoses and cut the unwanted bits off we there was only the bottle conntector with the nut left. After removing the rubber ring we brazed piece of copper pipe onto it. Here we drilled holes and fitted severy connectors. First for the pressure switch, then for the connection to the pressure regulator and two standard ones with a ball valve for air hose connections. One air hose connection female, the other male so a standard compressor can be connected as well or "backfilled" for additional and mobile storage use. As we wanted to avoid any reduction in the safety and burst pressure no release valve was added at the bottom on the tank. The added silica gel filter stage was used instead so no water will get into the system to begin with. Additionally, and painfully for me and me friend, the inside of the tank was coated with a layer of acrylic paint to prevent and rust as it was free from it when we checked it at the beginning. This involved filling a suitable amount of paint into it, closing the top while keeping the thread clean and then to move the tank around to cover the inside evenly. If you do this be prepared for some weird movements with your friends LOL Once we were sure all ust be covered by paint at least three times we released the exxess paint and allowed the inside to dry with the assistance of some air forced to go in with a length of pipe. This was repeated 3 times... Then another two just for the bottom third of it where there might be some moisture after all... Now you don't want to remove the brass valve with everything connected to it just to turn the tank over to releae the collected water. Instead we made sure the added pipe on the former relese port would go all the way to the bottom of the tank. If any water collection is suspected only the connection to the compressor needs an additional valve for the disconnection so the water will be force back out here. To make this easy and fast we used standard quick connectors and a piece of flexible airhose rated to 20bar of pressure for the connection to the compressor. We checked the performance of the moisture removal and oil removal only for a few hours of running time while priming some surface for later use. The compressor oil used was very smelly to say it nice but nothing coul be smelled in the first paper filter after the pressure regulator. To check for remaining moisture levels (65% humidity in the house) we used a 10m length of clear PVC tubing going through an ice bath. After 30 minutes of moderate air release there was no condensation on the inside of the tubing visible. Of course if you only need it for air supply and don't care about a bit of moisture and oil you can keep it simple ;) Benefits of doing such a stupid thing: For starters noise and the peace of mind that you can do a lot of airbrushing until the compressor needs to kick in again. Then of course the benefit of an almost silent system compared to a standard compressor - something you can actually tolerate while doing art. But the real deal is knowing YOU did it and you did it for cheap. Warnings and some advise... I know, it should be at the very beginning but I just hope you read till the end ;) If the compressor fails from overheating you are up for a new one. This means the tan size should be within the limits of what the compressor can handle - same for what you actually use on air. You want an empty tank to be filled before the compressor feels hot to touch - quite warm is fine but if you can't leave your hand on it then it is too hot. Same story for the usage. There is no point in using a tiny 10 liter storage tank if you need that capacity every few minutes. The compressor would only have little pauses and overheat quickly. You want a good balance of usage time before the tank goes below supply pressure and running time of the compressor to get it to full pressure again. This brings us to the safety of high pressures. Where possible only copper tubing or sufficiently rate hoses should be used, the later as short as possible to avoid them acting like a whip if something goes wrong. When it comes to the safety of the tank you want to make sure to stay withing it's rated limits. All benefits of a compressor capable of producing over 500PSI otr close to 35Bar is wasted if your tank and pressure regulator can't handle it. This must not mean that you try to use a gas cylinder of unknow age and pressure rating and assume it will work! If in doubt use a lower shut off pressure and stay within the limits of normal air compressors - which is around 120PSI or 8Bar. Never, ever use a tank that is compromised by inside rust or bad corrosion on the outside! If you don't know how to braze copper tubing, pipes and connectors then check out some of the great Instructables about it! Whenever you know you won't use any compressed air for more than a few hours close all valves especially the ones going back to the compressor on the high pressure side! Some compressors really don't like a huge pressure difference constantly pushing on the reed valves. If your tank is big enough to allow for more than one hour of operation before the compressor has to top it up you might want to consider a one way valve right on the compressor outlet. This will prevent any massive pressures going onto the valves - especially helpful for modern compressors that only rely on the sealing capabilities of the clyinders or rotary system used. One thing you should always consider is a pressure relief valve rated for about 50PSI more than your tank pressure - it can be added to the pipe ;) If the shut off valve ever fails the relief valve gives you the ease of mind that it will blow before your tank does. Maintenance... If modded correctly the compressor should stay in the compressor and the compressor itself should not overheat from use. Having said that your compressor might force out a little more than your best catch system can handle. If that becomes a problem it might help to use an oil with a lower viscosity. If all fails it just means you need to top up oil once the last last paper filter is filthy or use slightly more to begin with so the intervals are longer. The silica gel, if used should be recharged before all of it is wasted - no point in adding it if you use it once full of water. If no gel is used there will be water in the storage tank. Even with the added paint and a good air filter it is possible that nasty things grow in there. Making sure the tank is emptied of any water after long uses and again before the next use is good practise. If no pressure gauge is used on the tank you must make sure the shut off valve is always working fine and within set parameters. I strongly recommend using a gauge and if not to perform a pressure check of the system every now and then to confirm all is within parameters of normal operation. A compressor constantly running means you either use far too much air or you have a leak - same story if the compressos kicks in after some of forgetting to shut it off and close the valves. If you keep the above in mind the salvaged compressor should work just fine for many years to come. Troubleshooting and alternatives.... You put everything together the right way, double checked and something is till not right? Maybe my crystal ball helps me to find something... 1. Always oil coming through the catch system. It usually means you use too much of it. A salvaged compressor, if the refrigent was removed legally from the system should still have a "correct" level of oil inside. Too much oil would mean is being pumped through the system at an excessive rate. Very thin compressor oils tend to do that in the compressor is misude like we do. Changing to standard mineral oil can help here. As a last resort you can use a pressure gauge or good judgement to allow more flow through the needle valve from the catch system back to the compressor. Too much backflow here would mean we loose system pressure to the set level of this needle valve! 2. The R22 rated compressor seems to be unable to produce enough pressure. First do a leak test using soapy water to rule out any leaks. Do a back pressure test on the ports. If you can push air through them in the reverse way with ease it means the valves are damaged making the compressor useless. You need to replace it. A regular cause with our type of usage is a constand back pressure from the storage tank to the compressor. To prevent this it might help to mount an electric solenoid between the compressor and storage tank. Such valve should be off when the pressure switch is engaged and on when the pressure switch is disengaged. This prevents the coil from overheating but requires a "normally off" type of valve. A good source at the wreckers are cars with LPG systems installed, they usually have suitable 12V valves somewhere on or near the tank and filler cap. 3. I am using several kg of silica gel but still get a lot of water in my storage tank. Going overboard in a humid climate can be a good thing here but if moisture makes it into the tank even with great amounts of silica gel there are only two causes: a) the tube or cylinder used is not long enough or not wide enough to allow the absorption of all the moisture going through. b) the flow rate is too high and the temperatures are too. For the first the solution is obvious enough. The second is related to the first for the diameter and lenght but temperatures constantly above the 30°C while operating somehow limits what the gel can do. Using a cooling coil on the intake side or simply putting the gel containers in icy water will help to a great deal here. If that is not an option than I suggest to layer the gel and to seperate it with fine paper filter screens. This will slow and even out the airflow allowing for more contact time with the gel. 4. The compressor gets very noisy after some time. If "some time" means more than 30-45 minutes you simply have it running too much and it overheats. If the noise increases too much when reaching the shut off pressure it can mean the pressure is too high for it. 5. Can I use multiple compressors from smaller units or refrigerators to get enough air volume? Of course you can but it might mean you have to lower your pressure expectations. Consider that each individual compressor would get the back pressure from all other compressors running while it's outlet valve is closed. To avoid premature failure you want to make sure the compressors are shut off at a lowver pressure. 6. I don't want to use a big tank but require a good airflow for airbrush. Two or three fridge compressors working one after the other with a small tank to keep the output pressure even can allow for about 30 minutes runtime per compressor. With three it gives one hour for the the first to cool off and should be enough for ongoing work. Downside is you need to make some sort of automatic switch to "rotate" to compressor working. Last words.... Is you find any spelling mistakes you can keep them. However, if you use them in any way to make a profit with them I kindly ask for 10% of your earning from it ;) Why did I not make an Instructable out of all this? Well the day was very hot, the beer very cold and my mobile phone at home, so I did not take any pics. To top it up the whole thing is now in a seperate box for additional noise reduction so it can be used in the same room where the guy is working. Of course he just used a nailgun for the job without any regard of access or at least easy view of the two pressure gauges. Typical if you have a great idea and the cold beer tells you to forget all about screws or hinges ROFL Only comment was: You created it and it works fine, why would need more than the pipe connections for the gel and regulator? Maybe he will reconsider when the service is due....

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