I want to make a coilgun, but i didn't know if I should use 1 or 2 stages. I want to use capacitors rated 450v, 1000uf, I have ten of this capacitors. Thanks AMD
Asked by Kurt Gerhard 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hello Instructables community users, My name is Jezen Thomas and I'm here to ask for help with designing and creating some stage props to be used during a music performance. I'm not necessarily asking for free blueprints, although I'm clueless as to where I should start and I'd appreciate being pointed in the right direction. The first prop I need to produce is a giant telephone. I'm not 100% sure yet if I want it to be a modern styled mobile phone, or a vintage circular-dial type phone. I know aesthetically it's a big difference, but I'm sure thematically either would be just as effective on stage. I would like the phone to be similar in size and design to the giant mobile phone used on the old British comedy show, Trigger Happy TV. If you're not sure what I'm talking about, you can see exactly what I mean here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRWRJtIY5to Again, any help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance, and best regards, - Jezen Thomashttp://www.jezenthomas.co.uk
Posted by jezenthomas 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I made an hourglass as a prop for a local production of "The Wizard of Oz". The "witch" (the actress') still has it at her home. The "glass", which s actually plastic, & made of sections cut from 4 plastic goblets- is becoming less clear because the white sand I used is fogging up the surface with very fine scratches. I'd like to replace this sand (that I got from a craft store, like Joann's) with an aggregate that has smooth round pieces, not rough ones. These wont be so scratchy, and will also be less apt to cram together and clog the narrow passage from the top chamber to the lower one. I googled these words, and got some very technical info about the science of manufacturing concrete and plastic products, but nothing I could use to find or even name what I could buy and use. ALSO, is there a best compound for polishing the inside of the "glass" to restore the original clarity? In other things, I've used brass polish, and even toothpaste!
Asked by Cantoo 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
I'm looking for a light that I can place on the floor that would shine onto a projector screen. Something that spins with a spiral display. Either the light itself spins. Or possibly has the ability to place a filter onto a steady light and the filter spins. I'm in a band and i'm looking for something that would be strong enough to show this light display behind the drums as we play. The light and the projector screen would be relatively close to each other.
Posted by Ellyni 8 years ago
If you were to take two model rocket motors and remove the secoundary charge (that pushes out the payload) from one and possibly fill the rest of the cartrage with homemade propellant. if you put one cartrage ontop the other and secured it with a little tape, would that work as a two stage rocket. does anyone think that the flame would travel into the secound cartrage and the pressure would blow out the first cartridge. Just wondering if anyone tried this before and is still alive and happy.
Posted by Reeper 11 years ago | last reply 11 years ago
I am looking to add a 3 stage light timer to my shooting range at home and am wondering if anyone would know of something similar to this that has been done or possibly some help setting it up. I have seen that an Arduino may be able to do what I need? I am looking to have 3 lights, red, green, and yellow. I want the red light to be on all the time. One a button/switch is hit, the red light goes off and the green comes on for 2.5 minutes. Then the yellow light comes on for 30 seconds. Then the red comes back on until the button/switch is activated again. Any pointers or suggestions would be very helpful. Thank you.
Asked by Jubaroo 6 weeks ago
I want to make a coilgun with 2 or 4 stages; however, I don't have much experience with capacitors, magnetic fields, etc.. I am not really making it now, but its more of preparing the steps so when I do start, I will be able to complete it and be aware of problems that may occur. 1) when the coil is fed with electricity, what is stopping it from shooting right back at you? 2) how much voltage should the coils be using (aka what type of capacitor should I use) 3) I have heard that capacitors will sometimes have left over charge in them, how would I "dump" the excess. 4) Using multiple stages, should all the coils be turned on at once or in succession 5) should the wire coiling the tube be uninsulated? Here is a diagram of my current understanding of a coilgun. Let me know if it is not correct. Power Supply (battery) --> switch --> capacitor -->wire that wraps around the pipe, creating a magnetic field --> magnetic field pulls projectile into the tube and launches it.
Posted by Brinith 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Ladies and Gents:I am seeking help from you guys. I am in a band and want to build something that can control some lighting we have. I am looking for it to be controller by the drummers kick pedal or my bass. Ideally, everytime a certain sound is created i want the light to go on then off. Kinda like a strobe light but only at certain times (the kick pedal of when a certain sound comes from the bass). If you guys have any ideas, let me know. Here is an example of how I'd like it to work. Thanks for any help.
Posted by fightclub 9 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I'd like to make a light that will accommodate 2 or three light bulbs/spotlights/floodlights so that one comes on, and ideally fades into the other. It would be used in haunted houses. I am pretty sure this is a simple build, but I'd appreciate direction or advice. Or a full on Instructable. A simple setup with a switch (foot pedal?) that simply shuts off one color and turns on another would do. A button that begins to fade one color out and another in would be better. One that can be set to fade from one to another automatically at a predetermined interval would be awesome. Such a setup can be used to create a transformation effect as simple as Jekyll into Hyde or as elaborate as girl into gorilla. The reason I would prefer it to be automatic is so it can be "plug and play" with only one actor, and work even if it's a different actor each night. Probably something like this exists commercially, and A), I don't know what it is called B) I'm doing it for the Boy's and Girl's club, which has no budget, which means I'm paying for it, which means it needs to be as low cost as possible. C) If I can build it well and inexpensively, I'd like to play with variations on the theme.
Posted by justjimAZ 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hey I'm new but I really LOVE the website. I just had one quick question could someone show me how to do a lifecast of a human head. I'm a theatre major and I'd love to get involved in special effects but I'm starting on my own. Any help would be great. :)
Posted by twalton1 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I'm looking for DIY ideas for creating some lightning on stage at a small venue. The venue is called "The Laboratory" so you can see where the inspiration for the idea comes from. It needs to be impressive and easily visible but self-contained and safe enough to be operated by a run of the mill stage hand. Any suggestions are welcomed, but i was thinking along the lines of a large van de graff in a spark cage of some sort or something along those lines. I also have to take things like size, cost, maintenance, and complexity into account. I am not an amateur but I have never attempted any true high voltage projects. Any questions or suggestions are welcome. Thanks for the help!
Asked by waronidiocy 6 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I'm building a film scanner using a dlsr. Here's a picture of the rig so far: Basically there's a light source, negative stage, negative holder, camera support stage, camera and lens. I put a negative in the negative holder and slide it using a guide such that I can take a bunch of pictures of the negative at 1:1. For example, it takes 25 pictures to cover a 6x7cm negative. The individual files are then combined into one file using stitching software. The system works very well, but it's a bit tedious. I'd like to automate the negative movement using a diy motorized xy stage. Many of the designs I've seen are for much bigger units, such as for a cnc machine, or units that require speedy movement. That's not the case here. Each movement would be only 10-20mm. I'm fairly handy, and I can follow directions/recipes well, but I haven't worked with arduinos or stepper motors before. Any advice or suggestions on a good way to accomplish my goal would be very welcome!
Posted by pdesmidt 6 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I have some red green blue and yellow flood lamps from home depot, and i was wondering if there is a way to make it less of a flood and more of a beam, would making some sort of enclosure out of cans help? are there any other ways of stage lighting on the cheap?
Asked by dot communist 10 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
If you were to take two model rocket motors and remove the secoundary charde from one and possibly fill the rest of the cartrage with homemade propellant. if you put one cartrage ontop the other an secured it with a little tape, would that work as a two stage rocket. does anyone think that the flame would travel into the secound cartrage and the pressure would blow out the first cartridge. Justr wondering if anyone tried this.
Posted by Reeper 11 years ago
Hello inventors!!!! How are you? A long time ago I had an Idea! Make a toy theater or better a miniature stage box computerized. I've already made everything but now I need projector and motors for sets design. Before, I would like to start with Lights. There are a lot of project in this site with leds and the best way to create my theater lights is to use led pixel modules connected an Arduino! Now, everything sounds right and simple but is not really like that, because I want perfection! Do you know how to made miniatures stage lights? And also beautiful to see? I mean not just a tube with a diode inside? I work on stage as an artist and choreographer and I love lights. There are 3 kind of that... and I would like to realize all three. Image 1 - Simple spot (simple light) image 2/3 - Spot with Gobos/Images(that's amazing, do you know this kind of projector that can project images (called gobos)? I found on internet these pens that you can see below. They are perfect to made it but the problem is that you have to buy 5000pcs minimum....! So how to create it? where I can find the lens? The well? It will be amazing if we can also install a little step motor drived by arduino that is able to change gobos!!!) image 4 - Motorized Spot ( we can put together this two spots and made one that can move. We can use maybe 2 Servo motors! With that we can made them change directions but servos are so big...! a simplest and little idea?) All these light source are a single led that have a WS2801 chip to drive colors independently so the first one is simple to made...What about the second one? Thank you inventors!
Posted by mungle 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
So I recently decided that I wanted to build a coilgun. I already knew how they function, and after some light research, I've got the main design already laid out. What I'm looking for now is some more detailed input on the exact power requirements, circuitry, etc. Specifically: Firing a standard .177 steel BB, I want to use many small coils in series as opposed to one/few large ones. From my understanding, this will provide better end speed while keeping each coil's power draw relatively lower, and thus safer. (Am I right about this?) How many coils should I use, what would be overkill, etc? Each coil will be triggered sequentially by a IR LED/photocell trigger system rigged through tiny holes drilled across the barrel. Will a simple on/off circuit suffice, or will the projectile pass by too quickly for the full charge to release? If so, I assume I need a system to trigger a full discharge when tripped. Correct or not, and if so, how? I'm also considering fitting an extra gate at the end to trigger a circuit to bleed any remaining charge. Ideas on this? What size of capacitors should I use, and how would I charge them? The only thing Google can seem to turn up is camera flash circuits, but I'd much rather have one tailor-built to the system's exact levels. I'm going to use a press/hold switch to charge them, and would like an automatic shutoff with an LED that comes on when they are charged, but turns off when I release the button. Kind of like a camera flash, actually. I'd like to fit it with a re-chargeable battery. What sort of power is required here? How many firings would I likely get per charge, etc? What sort of muzzle velocity can I expect? I don't want to kill bears with it, but soda cans would be nice. I don't want to waste my time fabricating it only to be able to stop it with my eyeball. Lastly, are there any other points of concern or things I should know? Thanks for any input, and if everything ends up coming together nicely, I'll be sure to properly document the process for everyone's enjoyment. :)
Posted by Skye Pyro 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Crazy internal gears and hidden winches went in to creating this amazing non-motorized spectacle for a stage production of The Difficulty of Crossing a Field. A team at Texas Performing Arts at the University of Texas at Austin (my alma mater!) came up with the elegant solution shown in the video above. J.E. Johnson speaks more about it here. The video is awesome, but maybe next time the outstanding UT crew could make an Instructable of something like this? C'mon, J.E., throw a girl a bone - it's an excellent educational process! Nonetheless, it's brilliant work, and I love the opportunity to see inside the finished weevil! p.s. you may recognize someone else's name in the credit's too!
Posted by scoochmaroo 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Ok so I have looked everywhere I can think to find out how to wire my halogen work lamps to a light switch so I can turn them off and on for a stage light box like this http://mynamesdirt.blogspot.com/2010/07/how-to-build-stage-light-box.html but with a light switch instead of a pressure switch
Asked by avasquez10 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Live Action Game will include Vampires, werewolves, Fae, and mages. Sounds incredibly geeky I know and maybe it is, but it is also a blast! This will be for a semi-large live action game of 100 - 200+ people and we're trying to come up with some cool set/prop designs for general room/stage atmosphere but have a small budget, limited tools when it comes to saws or power tools (though we have more than 6 months before the day they are needed so we have time and plenty of hands to help). We do have several great artists working with us and a lot of creative crafty people but are only beginning to brainstorm possible ideas so I figured I'd ask for some suggestions from some of the web's cleverest DIYers. This is much like setting a stage for a theatre performance. Our convention space is pretty large and we have multiple large (think ballroom sized) rooms available to put our set in. Other requirements for pieces: Fairly light so we can move the items pretty easy (the game will be taking place in a convention space that we do not own). Ideally pieces could be broken down some for easy transportation and storage Would be great if some of the pieces had some versatility so we could use them in multiple venues (ie main structure, that can have things that can be switched out for other things is awesome for some of the pieces, like something covered with a canvas painted scene that can be switched out for a different canvas scene or similar idea) Nothing that is permanet or requires drilling into a wall/floor etc as the space is not ours and is rented Nothing that is on fire or requires fire. Nothing too complex for the average person to put together and take down Safety is a concern I would be interested in hearing any ideas or being pointed to websites for inspiration or instructions on creating these kinds of stage/prop pieces. Thanks in advance for any ideas!
Asked by Sindarr 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I would like to have an infant photo session where the new baby is in the banana peel. I am having a hard time coming up with something that will look real enough and be flexible for a baby to go in. My first thought was fabric, but That will not look as real as I would like. Can anyone help me?
Asked by stingingnettle 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Looking to get my apc40 midi controller to work properly in freestyler dmx lighting software. OK here is my issue the apc has lights that illuminate when you push a button or twist a knob etc, in freestyler the midi signal does not come back and keep the button lit as long as whatever you have it assigned to is on, and off respectively. I know there are 3rd party programs out there like midi ox, and bomes midi translator that will allow you to change the incoming and outgoing midi messages. But frankly I have no idea what they mean or do. I guess I want the apc to work like it does in abelton, in freestyler. I'm adding a link to the freestyler forum this has been started ideas of how the program sends and receives midi http://freestylersupport.com/fsforum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t;=2958&p;=11976&hilit;=AKAI#p11968 also I have attached a pdf of how the apc sends and receives signal. thanks
Posted by redvandan 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
May this be a big help for me and others who may stumble upon it. 1. I am controlling my coilgun with a PIC (PIC16F627A). What do I need to do in order to make it trigger SCRs? 2. What sort of external components do I need for the PIC (I'm sort of a newbie to electrical engineering)? 3. Regarding the actual coils, I am going to have 6 stages. How should the individual coils be made for maximum efficiency (I have heard that each successive stage should have less inductance, but I don't know exactly how this works)? 4. How does one go about slotting a metallic (brass) barrel while allowing optogates to work? 5. How exactly do you hook up the optogates to the microcontroller and to power sources? Any help on any of these questions would be greatly appreciated.
Asked by moshee 8 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
My high school is doing Hello Dolly and if possiblelwould like a train to be brought on stage, does anyone have ideas on how to do that? I have a couple but I'm having trouble bring all of it to one idea. I had an idea you can make hand turnable axles and gears for the wheels, other stuff for the smokestack, I was thinking maybe corflute for the body, but its really just chaos in my head right now. Any suggestions? It needs to be fairly lightweight. It would be nice to have workable wheels And not a real smokestack obviously but the appearance of smoke and a whistle Maybe a back platform if at all possible that Dolly could jump on... Our stage is small. It has no special things about it and its roughly 20 by 30 feet. There are two backstage wings that are really just small hallways that let out into the audience, and those are about 20 feet long. Our plays are all financed by the drama teacher herself so the less expensive the better as well. If nothing comes up thats ok too. We have an alternative that can be used.
Asked by zlanier21 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hello all who cared to shoot a glance. I come here to look for help. I am in need of either an electrical engineer specializing in electronics OR a pyrotechnician in the city of Montreal (French speaker welcome!,) who's workplace i can visit to do an internship style thing for school on Friday, the 6th of February (at any time that suits you.) Thanks, Karim (ZOMGWTF, i used my real name on the internet!!!!)
Posted by Tobita 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
Hi there, I have an old gramophone horn, quite big, which I would like to use as a prop in a show. My initial idea was to have one of those laser-tunnel-effects come out of it (and I would still be interested in doing that) but so far anyone I spoke to said it was pretty much impossible, as it would have to be a wireless prop (so it can be moved around freely onstage) The other option would be to have a laserbeam coming out of both ends, but here the maker of the particular double head laser seemed dodgy and my guess would be that if you buy a laser you want to buy quality in order to not endanger someone. At the moment I am at a loss, so if anyone has an idea what to look for or what to research into I would be very grateful. The criteria for the... light would be: -wireless (battery powered) -somehow interesting effect (a laser pointer would not be enough, unless there is a way of turning it into something more exciting) -small enough to fit snugly into the inside of a gramophone horn (max. 10cm high and 10cm deep, or adaptable to that size) It also wouldn't necessarily have to be a laser, I am interested in any (light)effect that would be visible on a stage. Thank you very, very much for taking the time to read this and if you have any thoughts - I would love to hear them :)
Asked by ungewinster 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I play in a three piece sludge metal band and I am in the process of making some portable footswitchable stage lighting. I want it to be safe and convenient, however I'm not toooo knowledgable when it comes to electrical wiring/ideal parts for ideal application, etc... Below are two images of my plans so far, but I could reeeeeally use some help in the issues/questions addressed in the images. If anyone can shed some light (no pun intended) on this I would greatly appreciate it. Please be as specific as possible. ISSUES/QUESTIONS? Portable footswitchable Stage Lighting for my band. I think we will be using 65-100watt incandescent lights. 4 momentary white lights (2 per side) + 4 on/off white lights (2 per side) + 2 color lights (1 per side). I DO NOT WANT TO ELECTRICUTE MYSELF OR ANYONE ELSE. I WANT THESE LIGHTS TO BE BRIGHT AND EFFECTIVE. CONVENIENT WIRING/CORDS WOULD BE IDEAL. - What wire to be used to connect couple labeled sockets? (two momentary, two on/off in each side box. both sides triggered at same time) - How do I wire the labeled sockets? Are they connected just like how it’s drawn? - Can those footswitches be used with this set up/light sockets?Or do I need a different type/rated footswitch to do this? - How can I connect and disconnect (for transport) RIGHT BOX to LEFT BOX and power both sides to one footswitch? ALL help and advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Posted by mtstreit 6 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
*********I have updated my design since posting this topic. The video is the more current design than what is written below.********** I came to the conclusion that using capacitors to provide the power for a coil gun is a stupid idea. A bold statement I know. The reason is that they are big and heavy, take time to charge, and need charging circuits. Also, the sharp rise in current that comes from capacitors is bad unless you are making an induction style coilgun, because the induced currents will hurt efficiency. If coil guns are ever going to be a practical hand held weapon it will need to be lighter, simpler / less delicate, and more powerful than what you will find on the internet if you look up coil guns. A rate of fire that is competitive with conventional guns will also be needed if a coil gun will be used for anything other than target shooting or maybe hobby hunting. So I designed a coilgun to meet these requirements. Visit my website for a full explanation of the design: http://www.ourbadscience.com/#!em-guns/cwjy I realized that a coilgun would not be a practical infantry weapon until batteries are more advanced anyway, so that just adds to the list of why capacitors are out. It will be powered directly off of the batteries, and have many coil stages. This allows a very high rate of fire. To get that rate of fire with capacitors you would need several capacitor banks charging at offset times, so after each bank fires another is just finished charging. That would be terribly bulky. The lower voltage from the batteries will give comparatively slow current rise in the coils which normally would make the coil timing weird. I plan to use an unconventional coil timing though. All the coils will be activated at once, and the coils behind the projectile will be shut off as it passes them. This will have several advantages: -The coils will only be powering up for a split second at the beginning. Most coils will already be at full power when the projectile gets to them (that is not the case in most coil guns). -Induced current will not be any issue. -Since the coils will all act as one coil, the projectile will be drawn toward the center of all the coils that are on. Timing of the shut off of the coils will not need to be perfect. This will be a pre-tuned passively timed system. I want to use a small adjustable electronic timer for the switch-off timing. This will require some work in the initial adjustment of the timing, but even actively switched coil guns (with optical sensors or something) require that. the advantage of a passive system over an active system is cost and simplicity, and you can pack the coils tighter on the barrel if you are not putting a sensor between each stage. That matters with 23 stages! As I said check out my website to see more details and pictures for this and other projects: http://www.ourbadscience.com/#!em-guns/cwjy
Posted by Jaycub 5 years ago | last reply 1 year ago
As a new type of manufacturing process that using rapid prototyping technology,3D printers aroused widespread concern when it was published. A new product was initial pushed into the market, people concerns its functionality and price more than its shape and so on. 3D printer is no exception. Initially, people's attention focused on its cost and performance. What way reflected cost and performance for 3D printers? I believe that there are three main areas, including printing speed, printing volume and resolution. For consumers, what level achieve these three areas and which brand is more competitive? Next, I will be based on my own experience for everyone to make a resolution. As a Chinese brand that created independently, LXMaker won the favor of consumers from different countries by its excellent performance when it was pushed into market and sales was rising gradually. Recently, LXMaker launched a new all-metal 3D printer that was named Iron Man series.Three aspects of the machine has been greatly improved. First is the super high printing speed:Take advantages of the cross shaft structure innovation and the unique design to separate feeding device with extruder at both sides, instead of Makerbot's heavy printing head (loaded with 3 electric motors, illustrated as below). LXMaker's light & handy extruder guarantees high speed printing. Imagine, if you are running, unloaded or carrying bags, which is faster? The maximum nozzle moving speed of LXMaker can reach 500 mm / sec . The novel cross shaft structure introduced above has win the big prize of "The Best Open Source Hardware"and"The Most Precised and Fastest 3D Printer",nominated by the world-wide well-known Make Magzine. Second is the super large printing volume:The maximum printing volume is up to 260x260x400mm, outstanding of 3D printers at the same price. Finally is the super high resolution:LXMaker has a very precise Z axis movement, which ensures the precision in practical. The theoratical precison of Z axis is 0.01mm, while the actual test precision is only 0.02 mm, which guarantees the super high quality of the workpiece, and can effectively prevent deformation in the printing process. Ths precision of X & Y axis can also be as high as 0.125mm. In addition to excellent performance,the price of the Iron Man is very close to the people.The machine of maximum print size that need 2199 dollars was located in moderate level in similar products, so that consumers that come from all countries were able to withstand it. Because of this,LXMaker owned today's sales. As time goes by, the point that people focus on the 3D printer was also not limited to the cost and performance, but rather more attention appearance and stability of the machine. Because considering this change,LXMaker introduced Iron Man series. Iron Man series used all-metal structure and the whole machine has a very high stability.In addition,it was very strong.And it didn’t produce crack or fracture because of a slight collision. So it has better adaptability for long-distance transport, consumers do not have to worry about damage of product because of long bumpy. At appearance of the machine, Iron Man series launched black red and blue creatively.According to their preferences,consumers can customize the 3d printer that belong to themselves.And three colors of the machine is filled with the fashion sense and the modern sense.This feature meet the requirements of the product appearance that digital technology enthusiasts. The method of LXMaker is designed to meet the trend of customization. New products always went through a process that from performance to shape after published. Eventually,the overall level of products will be improved by leaps and bounds. 3D printer reflects the development process of this law fully. Therefore, the most critical for the business is to discover consumer’s mindset changes and adjustments based on the changes in a time.It is the only way that owned good yields and returns. The only constant is change.
Posted by LXMaker 5 years ago
I am building a rocket and i want to use two or so F engines, how do i stage these
Asked by peoplerstupid 10 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
We are going to purchase a microscope on-line, I'm having a hard time deciding on the more expensive one w/ Double Layer Mechanical Stage, or the less expensive one with just plain Mechanical Stage in the description. They both look the same to me. They are both nice microsopes, binocular 40-2000x magnification, condeser lenses, iris diaphrams, the whole 9 yards. I dont want to have difficulty looking around in the objective feild for things like erythrocytes, monocytes, and the like, and I don't know what the double layer thing means. Any "Seasoned Pros" out there to give me some advise? The Pics below are of the 2 choices. The left is the Double Layered Mechanical Stage, the 2 on the right are of the plain Mechanical Stage.
Asked by Joe Smania 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Y'know, something like the colorful gyrating psychedelic oil-blobby light shows. Sometimes referred to as "liquid light". Think Jefferson Airplane or early Pink Floyd kinda stuff. I'd like to be able to do something like this for when my band plays, so ideally it'll be safe (don't want another Great White incident), portable and relatively easy to set up and let it do it's thing. Thanks!
Asked by knoif25 10 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I am planning on making a very high volume compressor from a small engine. I plan to adjust timing and stuff accordingly. I just wan't to make sure an engine can handle the pressure. I assume it can because of the explosions it can contain but I just want to be sure it can handle 125-200psi. And also, is 2 stage really necessary or can I just push all the air in in one stage with a couple pistons.
Asked by jj.inc 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
hi, i am one of those guys who get some unknown fear when they are on the stage........the fear is about that every one would laugh at me when i say something on the mike......... so......... this is my problem...... please.., can any one give me some advice to get rid of this.......??..
Asked by dheeraj nagarjuna 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
HI, I need to make 4-12 foot columns and 4-3 foot columns to resemble ancient Thesolaniki (Greece) for the stage. I need to be able to break them down for transportation and storage into 8 foot lengths if possible. I was thinking of using concrete forms from the building supply section of our home improvement store, but perhaps you have another idea that is Light and inexpensive. I will be able to use the batton in the flyloft to attach a guide wire, so they won't topple. Thank you.
Asked by Tabithadees 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I want a game consisting of Sonic 2-Special-Stage-Like areas and a level editor to make your own to play. Can someone make such a game please?
Posted by crazytobuildmc 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
Asked by electricfan 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hi all, a friend of mine asked me to help him design and build a costume for a stage show he's doing; he will be wearing a monster mask and needs an inflatable "brain" to suddenly inflate (note, he changes costumes every 5-10 minutes during the show so it's something that needs to be fairly portable and easy to change into). We tried using CO2 canisters with balloons, a good effect but not nearly big enough. I'm thinking about some kind of air pig with a valve that he can clip a connecting hose to. If anyone has done anything like this or has a good recommendation I'd love to hear! Many thanks, DAZU
Asked by damianzuch 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I have 15 10000 uf 400v 17200 ma capacitors I was wondering what the best way to charge them would be each stage will be ran from 3 caps making 2400j each stage for 5 stages. If there is no efficient way to charge all at once I would like to be able to charge each stage separately.
Asked by ThinkDesignConstruct 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I'm looking to make something that sort of combines both of these, but i'm really hesitant about diving into something like this as I don't want to shock myself or someone else haha. https://www.instructables.com/id/The-Inexpensive-Dremel-Foot-Switch/ https://www.instructables.com/id/Build-the-BandBlinder---Stage-lights-on-the-cheap/ This seems like it'd be easy enough to build yourself, but I can't say for sure. I'd like to be able to control 4-6 colored lightbulb fixtures with 4 separate footswitches. I build guitar effects pedals, though I can't read schematics, so I have knowledge of building enclosures and swtich setups. So if it's basically just a power on/off switch to the light would that blow out the bulb quickly? would it have to be another way of switching it on/off? Would it have to be a specific type of bulb? I was thinking about having an enclosure with 4 on/off footswitches to control the lights, and then 2 momentary switches that will only turn on if the switch is pressed down. I want the power to be grounded, the enclosure would be 4-6 switches with 4-6 outlets for the lights and then one cable for the main power. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. - Matt
Asked by mtstreit 7 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
To make the Download page more streamlined, would it be possible to speed the process up and remove the page that appears before the actual PDF document page come up. As to be able to direct Download would be advantageous. I seem to always have to click twice before the document appears on my desktop. Great site though!! Thank you!! i.e. https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Citrus-Powder/?download=pdf
Posted by DuncanClark 3 years ago
Hey Guys... need some advise and help on the initial idea and components of this project. PETTY COIN BANK: PURPOSE: - To electronically segregate coins, display the total number of coins per each case and the total monetary amount inside, with dispensing and security capability. FUNCTION: - Individual coins inserted in the coin slot will be segregated to go to the corresponding individual coin cases and each case will count and display the number of coins dropped in them and a general display for the total amount of money inserted in the device. With a security lock, the device is capable of dispensing coins. so What do you think? Some advise on how i can make this possible... I do have some ideas on the segregation and dispensing mechanisms of the project, and how to identify each of the coins from each other when inserted in the coin slot.My concern would be the Displays for the each NUMBER OF COINS that falls per case (3 displays in total), and the TOTAL MONETARY AMOUNT display that counts per inserted coin in the system. Of course when dispensing, the number of coins should be decremented and the TOTAL MONETARY AMOUNT would change as well depending on the coin and number of coins dispensed. And as you might have read from the purpose and function, this project intends to have a security lock for the dispensing mechanism. Anyone can put coins but only someone that knows the code can dispense coins. I plan on putting a keypad for that. but here is the thing... I DON'T KNOW WHAT MICRO-CONTROLLER I SHOULD USE. I plan on using ARDUINO, but what arduino should i use? and if someone can help i'd like a count of the inputs and outputs so i can decide on what to use. Thanks if someone helps on this...
Asked by Gedon 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
This is the third stage of fighting the beast and he is way to hard to kill with one life orb and i don't know how to get more from where i am
Asked by seabananers 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I'm interested in building a box to perform this illusion on the relatively-cheap. Granted, there are many ways of performing this illusion; I'd like to build one that doesn't require two women but uses fake legs instead. I don't need help with the fake legs.
Posted by zombies 11 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
Hello, im brand new here! Im hoping someone could help me with the electronic side of some LED lightboxes im trying to build for my band. The boxes im imagining have a face approx 30X10cm with approx 50 LEDs in each and i plan to build two identical boxes, one for either side of the stage. Can anyone help with maybe a schematic or some instructions as to how i can build and power such units? And if anyone is willing to help further, i would also like to have a built in function where the lights stay on solid, but can strobe (like a regular strobe light) when activated by a foot switch wired to each box. Im not bothered if it requires a separate individual switch wired to each, or if its possible to wire a single master to both. Hope someone can help!
Asked by jetbones 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
We have an entry way that leads right into the basement. Since we have occationally had water on the floor there we want to take up the carpet and install ceramic tile. It's a small area, only about 50 sq'. I found lots of information online about estimating materials but nothing about how much time to allow for this project. I'm an above average handyman. About how many hours should I expect this to take? I know there are several stages, how long do I need to wait between stages? 1) apply self leveling floor compound (how long for this to set before going to next stage)? 2) Apply mastic and lay down tiles (how long for this to set before going to next stage)? 3) grout tile lines (how long for this to set before going to next stage)? 4 seal grout lines (how long for this to set before going to next stage)?
Asked by etcmn 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hello I am working on a new coilgun using 15 10000 uf 400v 17200 ma capacitors. The accelerator is 5 stage, while using 3 caps per stage each stage will have 2400j of energy. I will be posting updates on this forum every month or so. my current setback on the project is charging what I am wondering is what input current and voltage and output current would I need to charge 3 caps decently fast. once that is solved I will line up 5 in parallel to charge all (1 per stage) if I need to line up a greater amount of a lower rated circuits I will.
Posted by ThinkDesignConstruct 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I need the plans/general guidance to build a high voltage/high frequency power supply like the one used here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUQReIW8f1Q&feature=plcp . He describes it as "A small ignition-coil, driven by a simple NE555-circuit feeds a 2-stage-multiplier. 12kV out...almost no current, but as you see: Enough to start a fire." Im not sure how to build that.
Asked by lug big lug 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago