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LED Stips HELP! Answered

Hello all! I am in need of help! I am putting LED strips in a drum set. I've been brain storming but can't seem to come up with a solution.
Here's what we have: 4 Drums
Here's what we need: A battery powered, remote controlled LED strip in each drum.

I can not put holes in the drums to run cables of any kind. These strips need to be solo-powered but also have to be able to be turned on and off without touching them as the drums have heads on the top and bottom. There will be no way to access the strips.

I was thinking of some sort of magnetic switching device, but i don't know if this exists....

Any help would be greatly appreciated!



Josehf Murchison wrote me a PM in which he calculated (well done pal!) the quite high power-storrage needed for around 4h light on one role. He estimated about one Carbattery each role per 4h. Thats correct of you dont take into consideration of other factors like dimming or other battery-chemistry.

I repost my Answer to him because i think the LiPos i mentioned may really be something worth looking at for such projects. I use Turnigy's over and over in such things...

Aye. But only if you let them run in full swing aka 1500 lumens which is a really crazy ammount of light for some mood-lighting... Dial that down to lets say 250 lumens which will need around 1/6 of the power.
So a 8.3 to 12.5 Wh-Battery.
Thats around 1 Ah @ 12V.
Nothing too big needed there even if we double or tripple the capacity!
Drop 70$ and you have a LiPo with 14V (Nice for some efficient Buck-DC/DC-Conversion to 12V) 42 Wh-Battery (3500mAh) with a weight of only 351 grams.
--> http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5722

Or go for a Turnigy with 5 Amp-hours worth @ 22V (around 90 Wh!!!) costing only 54$. Makes a VERY good starting point for DC/DC-Conversion (Buck) to 12V. weighting in just shy over 800 grams.
--> http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14845

hardly what i call a car-battery in terms of weight and bulk. :)

Oh: If you want to buy from Hobbyking, here is a little trick:
Go to the page of the item you want.
Then stay there for some time without changing or reloading the page. Soon there will be a "Special offer" discount which is around 5% discount.
I take that all the time! :)

Ok. I think I can figure out the switch part. Now, I need to know how many of what kind of batteries I'd need to run an led strip.

For that to answer we need to know what LED-strips you are using. Normally that is written there...
But as Josehf Murchison already told, normally thats 12V but i have also seen other configurations...

I will be using one of these types....


I just thought of something
At 20 minute sets turning off the LEDs between sets you would need at least a 50 to a 75 watt hour deep charge battery for one role just for one 4 hour gig.
That is a car battery.

I looked them up
12 volts 2 amps 24 watts on a 300 LED role
about the same size as the power converter for a 12 volt laptop

"Working Voltage: 12VDC"

Also a note:
for same Led# but multicolor and waterproof with remote-control and DC-Supply and Controler:
free shipped to you worldwide. Total cost: 37$

Also if you want only ON/OFF and only white, you go for http://dx.com/p/23-5w-3200k-1585-lumen-300-3528-smd-led-warm-white-light-flexible-strip-dc-12v-5m-109843 + http://dx.com/p/66678 for a total of 29.31$

Reed switches will be problematic the drum walls are thick and the distance can affect the reed switch as well as the drum skin vibrates and anything on the skin changes the sound.
I would connect the wires for the LED strip to two different metal component rivets or bolts on the inside of the drum and the battery pack to the same components on the outside of the drum.
You could use the brackets to tighten the drum skins and this way you don’t need to take the drum apart to change the batteries or even use a power converter.
Without knowing the specks of the LED strip I would guess 12 volts.


Ah... yes. Why not!
Also maybe you find hollow ribbets which holes are just the size of a normal plug like 4mm or 2mm. then you already have a nice option to plug in the external battery/DC-supply.

Also i just had a funny idea... Thanks to the idea with the reed-switches and the magnets.
I will see if i can draw up something...

OK. I adapted some ideas i saw how they open and close (mechanical) valves in high-vacuum-aparats in the laboratory: Also no touching possible...

Since i suppose playing a drum can cause some vibrations to happen, the solution needs to be stable and rigid. No flimsy parts.
Also if i immagine that use of the thing, i think you simply want a way to "mood" the drums. They dont change ON and OFF all the time while playing, right? They get set beforehand and then left alone?

Ok then!
Use a magnet (Thanks for the basic idea) and move a iron (magnetic) ball in an inverted U-Tube.
One end holds the contacts which get closed by the conducting ball and the other end is the "storage" part if you dont want it switched ON.

Explanations to the images i uploaded @ http://www.bilderload.com/bild/278922/onIDWPD.png and http://www.bilderload.com/bild/278923/offATFIU.png
The red thing is the iron-ball.
The blue things are the bare metal contacts inside the tube. Maybe aluminum-Foil or something like that. Maybe also bare copper-firing possible. Play and test...

The tube should be somewhere where you can reach it with the magnetic force of your magnet... I suggest the walls of the drum and not the skin (since they vibrate much more than the walls and may get the ball stuck or something like that).

This is however just a first brainstorm at 1 AM in the morning, so bare with me if the ball get stuck or whatever happens...
But maybe i cave someone here the starting point of a better idea or someone can improve on my idea...
My 2 cents and have fun! :)

Magnetic switches *do* exist - look for reed switches. They have two thin steel contacts, which move together when you put a magnet close.

A reed-switch on the inside of the drum's body would work fine when you place a magnet on the outside of the drum.

But then how would I turn it off?

Move the magnet away, and the reeds move apart, breaking the circuit.

But will the magnet just stick to the drum while it's on?

Probably not.

You could, though, stick a piece of steel in the inside of the drum, or a bracket for the magnet on the outside.

They wont stick to the drum, but have to be close to the reed-contact to activate the switch.
As soon as the magnet moves away or falls off, the switch also will switch off.